The mirrors of the sky
The Sila lakes, together with the wetlands and the many rivers that cross the plateau, are an ideal “blue thread” along which to explore the area. Touching the shores of these “mirrors of the sky”, our Wellness Route proposes a variety of water-related activities: admiring the northern landscapes from the banks of the lake basins or from the heights, walking through the valleys while listening to the voice of streams, in the same places that once witnessed the brigands’ epic deeds, exploring the lakes in a canoe or simply taking a break in the cool of the larch groves that descend to the shores.
Map
Technical specifications of the route
10
Locations touched
95
Total kilometres
28
Points of interest
Discover the values of the territory
Water and Energy
The Sila streams and lakes are a precious reserve of drinking water and an important source of renewable energy.
Biodiversity
The pure waters of the Sila lakes and streams are the refuge of numerous migratory species and the habitat of endangered species such as the otter.
Outdoor at 360°
Water sports, hiking, cycle tourism and mountain biking are just some of the many outdoor activities that can be practiced among the lakes and mountains of the Sila plateau.
The Snows of the Mediterranean
Water in Sila is also synonymous with snow. A unique opportunity to practice downhill and cross-country skiing, as well as walking with snowshoes while admiring views that reach all the way to the sea.
ITINERARY 2
Description of the itinerary and stages
The stages
The Ampollino Lake
The Wellness Route leading to the discovery of the Silan territory through the encounter with the crystal-clear and uncontaminated waters flowing from its peaks can only begin from the shores of the Ampollino Lake, the southernmost of the three large artificial reservoirs on the plateau and the first one to be created in the area, thanks to the dam built between 1916 and 1927.
Situated at an altitude of 1280 metres and nestled among the enchanted forests of Sila, in the shadow of the peaks of Montenero (1881 m) to the north and Mount Gariglione (1765 m) to the south, the Ampollino Lake soon established itself as one of the places of the heart of both visitors and locals.
Indeed, it is on the southern shore of this lake that two of the most frequented tourist centres in the area have sprung up: Villaggio Palumbo and Trepidò, both hamlets of the municipality of Cotronei, well integrated into the landscape and almost hidden in the shade of the large larch pine trees.
Water, in its most diverse forms and expressions, seems to be the element that best represents the identity of this corner of the territory. The Visitor’s Centre of the Sila National Park in Trepidò houses in fact the Museum of Water and Energy where, through the use of multimedia and interactive technologies, it is possible to enjoy an overview of the Park’s towns and of the environmental characteristics of the territory, focusing in particular on water riches and on issues related to renewable energy sources.
In the nearby Villaggio Palumbo, on the other hand, water is the common thread linking various opportunities offered to those who love active holidays. The snow-covered slopes of Mount Gariglione are, in fact, the highlight which has made the village a popular resort for winter tourism, with tracks and ski facilities that are among the most modern and well-equipped in Calabria, operating also in the summer season. From the intermediate station of the ski lift, it is possible to access the steel bobsleigh track that allows you to launch yourself into exciting descents more than a kilometre long. In winter, at Villaggio Palumbo, it is also possible to enjoy the magic of ice skating, on the rink of the specially equipped arena.
All around, there are numerous hiking trails, such as the Fiumarella trail, leading to the discovery of enchanted woods through which streams flow and springs of crystal-clear water gush. The circumnavigation of the Ampollino Lake, along the stretch of cycle path and the small roads that run along its shores, is instead an opportunity for a magnificent cycling trip, suitable for the legs of the whole family.
Leaving the shores of the lake, we set off along the SP 210 provincial highway, following the directions for San Giovanni in Fiore, immersed in dense forests with views recalling the Great North, rather than a place in the heart of the Mediterranean Sea…
Lorica and the Arvo Lake: a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts
Leaving the shores of the Ampollino Lake and taking the SS108bis highway, our journey takes us to meet several small and characteristic rural hamlets of Sila, with their houses and farms, until we reach the charming locality of Rovale where, amidst the green meadows and woods, a few slivers of blue begin to peep out: we are now close to the shores of the Arvo Lake and to the second stop on our route: the tourist centre of Lorica, nestled between the two highest mountains on the plateau: Mount Botte Donato and Montenero.
Lorica was originally founded as an agricultural centre, in an area inhabited since the Palaeolithic age, as confirmed by findings of furnishings dating back to that prehistoric era, but it was during the 1960s that the small centre developed as the pearl of the Silan tourism. In this town, the administrative headquarters of the Sila National Park is an important reference point for finding information material on the area. The Arvo Lake, on the northern shore of which Lorica overlooks, took its present form in the period between 1927 and 1931, during which the dam, consisting of an embankment with a central clay core, was erected. The structure represented the first example in Italy, and one of the very first in Europe, of a reservoir built using this technique.
Today, the dam is a walkway of about 280 metres, from which impressive views of the lake area can be enjoyed.
The best way to discover this corner of the Sila territory is certainly to indulge in a few hours dedicated to outdoor activities. Canoe, kayak, windsurf and water bikes are the types of boat that can be hired in the area, with which it is possible to “venture” on fascinating explorations of the lake. On the other hand, those who want to enjoy a relaxing “cruise” can opt for a tour on board the tourist boat that sails the waters of the lake, powered by a system of electric motors that guarantee environmental sustainability.
In the town, it is also possible to rent bicycles to ride on a number of cycling excursions such as the itinerary that makes it possible to complete the full circumnavigation of the basin’s shores, a route that can also be travelled on horseback, thanks to the services provided by the nearby Horses Lorica stables
Close to Lorica, on the other hand, is the hamlet of Cavaliere, along the road leading to the departure station of the Mount Botte Donato ski lifts.
Once reached the hamlet of Cavaliere, nothing precludes an excursion to high altitude by ascending in the modern gondola lift to the panoramic peak of Mount Botte Donato, a true natural balcony over the whole of Lorica, its lake and a large part of the Sila plateau. An opportunity not to be missed is also to indulge in an exciting descent down the bobsleigh track on rails set up near the ski lift departure station.
The mysteries of the Altar Stone and the enchantment of the Ariamacina Lake
Having finished our tourist exploration of the Lorica area, we can head back towards Rovale to take, immediately after the small hamlet, the SP 211 provincial highway, that climbs in a northerly direction, gently winding its way through woods of imposing larch pines and meadows.
After a long straight stretch, you reach the directions for the Pietra dell’Altare (Altar Stone), the “Stonehenge of Sila”, a place full of mystery and legends… Here, too, it is worth taking a break and embarking on a peaceful hike through the pine forest.
As soon as the forest thins out, you find yourself on a sunny plateau dotted with large, smooth, rounded stones, some arranged in rows, others scattered in the low vegetation. Legends recount that a group of knights returning from the Crusades chose one of these boulders as an altar to celebrate a mass of thanksgiving for their return home. Other tales trace the event back to even earlier times, claiming that the rite took place in the presence of King Charles the Great… A story that is perhaps not very credible, but that has always struck the imagination of the Silanians, so much so that, even today, the area where the stones are located is known by the name of Serra di Carlomagno (Charlemagne’s Boulders). Leaving aside the historical truth, this remains an evocative place and there are many visitors who, in the presence of the boulders, report having perceived strange sensations and particular vibrations…
After the immersion in the silence of the Pietra dell’Altare, the journey across the plateau continues along the SP 211 provincial highway. When the snow cloaks the Sila territory, the gentle undulations of this area are an irresistible invitation for Nordic skiing enthusiasts, who can take advantage of the services and slopes of the Serra Carlomagno Cross-country Ski Centre.
Just beyond, the Sila gives us another of its astonishing space-time jumps. Taking the fork that, on the left, leads to the tourist village of Silvana Mansio, we suddenly find ourselves immersed in atmospheres reminiscent of the Old West, the frontier and the wide-open spaces of North America, amidst pastel-coloured wooden and stone cottages, complete with colonial-style porticoes.
Returning to the main road, we continue in the direction of San Nicola.
Driving along the ribbon of asphalt in the darkest hours of the night, it is worth pulling over and turning off the car headlights to enjoy a “trip among the stars”. We are in fact in one of the areas of Italy with the lowest light pollution and, on clear nights, the Milky Way is there to fill us with emotion and wonder.
Little by little, the curves give way to the plain, but after a short stretch the meadows are replaced by slight bushy protuberances that look like miniature hills. Here it is not uncommon to spot some of the local fauna such as martens, black squirrels, wild cats, dormice and weasels. At the end of the provincial highway, the road opens up into three directions: taking the right, towards San Giovanni in Fiore, you reach the San Nicola station, once a stopping point along the railway line that joined Cosenza to Catanzaro. The wagons of the line are still there and currently house a curious refreshment point, where one can comfortably have lunch seated in the carriage.
We should also make a stop at this point, leaving the car and setting off along the easy Ariamacina path, which from the San Nicola station leads to the discovery of one of the most secluded and evocative lakes of the Sila, retracing a small part of the ancient transhumance route that allowed the herds from the mountain pastures to move, at the end of the summer, to the ‘marina’, i.e. the lowland areas of the Crotone area.
The Ariamacina Lake too is a reservoir of artificial origin. It was built for hydroelectric purposes around the 1950s and is fed by the Neto River. Its quiet and secluded location, on the western slopes of Mount Volpintesta, makes it an enchanted place, surrounded by dense forests of beech, fir and larch pine and extensive high-altitude grasslands, an ideal stopping point for various migratory species that stop or nest on its shores every year. The great crested grebe, known for its curious courtship dance on the surface of the water, has here one of the rare nesting sites in Italy.
The Cecita Lake and the Cupone Visitor Centre: nature in the limelight
Having completed the hike to the shores of the Ariamacina Lake, the journey continues following the winding course of the former SS 107 highway, once the main traffic artery of the plateau, now replaced in this function by the wide, flowing highway that runs alongside. For those who want to enjoy a slow journey to discover the area, the old state highway is the right way to go, perhaps even allowing themselves the luxury of getting stuck in the “traffic” of the herds of cows and sheep that, during the transhumance period, share the narrow strip of asphalt with the cars.
The route continues along the old state highway until it briefly takes the SP207 provincial highway and then the secondary road that branches off to the left, leading into the agricultural heart of the Sila, among meadows, cultivated fields and small beech and conifer woods. It looks like the landscape of Tolkien’s Shire, and the local toponymy reinforces this impression: the name of the hamlet of Colle Lungo (Long Hill), found along the way, could have come straight from the pen of the great British writer…
Upon reaching the crossroads with the SS 177 highway, we follow the latter to the right and soon, amidst the leaves of the trees and the green of the fields, we catch a glimpse of a new spectacle of nature: the plain that hosts the great basin of the Cecita Lake.
It only takes a few more seconds of travelling to fully enjoy the enchantment of the lake: the environment brings to mind the harmony of the small Scottish islands, with larch pines growing up to the shores, and a few holiday cottages defining the landscape, adorning the meadows that surround the basin with their harmonious architecture.
The Cecita Lake is the largest and most extensive in the Silan area and, unlike its smaller counterparts, was already there before the construction of the large 55-metre-high dam, completed in the early 1950s. Recent archaeological and geological studies have in fact shown that the artificial reservoir was built on a pre-existing natural lake. Along the banks, several archaeological findings have been unearthed, testifying to the presence of farmers and hunters in the prehistoric age.
Those travelling on the Wellness Roads cannot miss the small church of San Lorenzo, located on the shores of the Cecita Lake, nestled in a breathtaking landscape, surrounded by green meadows in summer and white snow in winter. This small wooden church, dedicated to the martyr Saint Lawrence, was built thanks to the efforts of the local inhabitants and devotees, who wanted to remember an ancient tradition.
We have now arrived at the Cupone Nature Observation Centre, now operated by the Carabinieri Biodiversity Department of Cosenza, which stands right along the shores of the lake and represents one of the most extensive complexes in the Sila National Park dedicated to environmental education. A visit to the Centre, with all its many elements of interest (from the animal enclosures to the geological park, from the botanical garden to the didactic path) is obviously obligatory, to say the least, but, in this suggested itinerary following the thread of water, an equally important protagonist can only be the Cecita Lake itself, whose pure waters, besides being a paradise for sport fishing enthusiasts, also represent an uncontaminated habitat still inhabited by the otter, a species that is at serious risk of extinction in Italy and finds a ‘sanctuary’ and a protected refuge here in the Sila.
To fully appreciate the beauty of the landscape and the different nuances of this lake environment, it is advisable to get on a bicycle and ride the entire circumnavigation of the lake in about three hours, which, despite not being very difficult or uneven, does have some steep climbs…
Towards the Gorges of the Trionto: on the trail of Norman Duglas
After a break at the local agritourism farms, we get back in the car to drive towards the conclusion of our itinerary among “The mirrors of the sky”. Here we are faced with yet another surprising metamorphosis: along the curves of the SP 217 provincial highway, which leaves the plateau to begin its descent eastwards, the prairies give way to the millenary Fossiata forest, one of the oldest, largest and most majestic forests in Sila.
From the Cava di Melis hamlet, where the highest vineyard in Europe is located at 1300 metres above sea level, the road loses height amidst numerous hairpin turns, until the view opens over the roofs of the houses of Longobucco and the splendid valley of the Trionto river.
About this ancient hamlet, described in the early 1900s by the English traveller and novelist Norman Duglas as “a dream city of the Thousand and One Nights”, and its many elements of cultural and artistic interest, our reader will find a wealth of information in the Wellness Route presentation dedicated to the history, traditions and legends of the Silan territory. Here, however, our curiosity leads us back upstream, again following the winding paths of the Silan waters, which now rush turbulently and restlessly, attracted by the lure of the Adriatic coast.
The last wonder that the Sila gives us is in fact that of the gorges carved into the rock by the Trionto river, a narrow and perilous passage that Norman Duglas himself travelled among the first to reach Longobucco coming from Acri, and where today one of the most evocative and fascinating excursion itineraries in the whole of Calabria, as well as a stage of the long-distance route of the Via Basiliana, runs.
All points of interest
1) Departure – The Ampollino Lake
Lake Ampollino, located at an altitude of 1280, is the first of the artificial reservoirs created in the 20th century on the Silan plateau for hydroelectric purposes: the dam that generates it was built between 1916 and 1927. It is currently connected by penstock to Lake Arvo, from which it receives its waters by gravity, as well as those of its namesake tributary, which go to feed two power plants, Orichella and Timpa Grande, about 800 meters further downstream. In addition to a rich fish fauna, obviously identical to that of Lake Arvo given the direct connection of the waters, the lake has other tourist attractions related to the historical aspects of the area: the remains of a prehistoric settlement from the Bronze Age, and a bridge from the Roman era at Fiume Tassito. In the surface connecting passage between the Arvo and the Ampollino is the striking Fiumarella Trail, part of the Sentiero Italia, which allows scenic hiking or mountain biking. The new bike path and small roads around the lake allow for its bicycle touring circumnavigation.
In Trepidò, a hamlet of the municipality of Cotronei, is the Visitor Center of Sila National Park, which houses the Museum of Water and Energy. The Center was created thanks to the
environmental redevelopment of the area and the building renovation of an old building owned by the municipality of Cotronei, granted on loan for use to the Park Authority. The museum makes use
of modern immersive and multimedia technologies to accompany the visitor on a journey of discovery and knowledge of the Park's villages, flora, fauna, protected areas and artisanal and enogastronomic excellence, then dwelling in particular on the area's water resources and renewable
energy.
Information and contacts:
Sila National Park Authority – www.parcosila.it
Also known as Palumbosila, Palumbo Village (a hamlet of the municipality of Cotrronei) is the newest of the tourist centers that have sprung up among the Sila Mountains.
The Village is located on the south shore of Lake Ampollino, well embedded in the natural environment and almost “hidden” among the woods. An element of attraction in the winter season are the modern and efficient ski lifts located on the eastern slope of Mount Scorciavuoi, whose summit is 1,754 meters above sea level. The resort makes use of two chairlifts and one ski lift serving ten alpine ski slopes (including red and blue). The lifts also operate in the summer, when a steel bobsled track can be accessed from the intermediate chairlift station, allowing descents of more than a kilometer. In winter it is also possible to ice skate in the specially built ice rink. Stores for the rental of sports equipment, various restaurants, and hotel and camping facilities complete the Village’s range of services.
Information and contacts:
Palumbo Village – Villaggiopalumbo.it
See tab in Outdoor Routes
See tab in Outdoor Routes
2) Lorica and the Arvo Lake
Lake Arvo is a reservoir created in 1926-32 for hydroelectric purposes by damming the course of the river of the same name and the Bufalo and Fiego streams. It is located at an elevation of 1278 and occupies an area of 8 square kilometers, making it the second largest in Sila, after Cecita. The dam that generated it is made of compacted earth and clay, a unique case in the entire region. As with the Cecita, Lake Arvo has also fit harmoniously into the mountainous environment of Sila, and over the years it has become a center of attraction for tourists: it lends itself well to water sports such as rowing or wind surfing, is swimmable, and is rich in countless species of fish, both native
and introduced, of interest to sport fishing enthusiasts. Other activities available to outdoor enthusiasts include mountain biking, with a variety of equipped trails, and numerous trekking routes of varying difficulty.
Located on the northern shore of Lake Arvo, at an altitude of 1314, is Lorica, a must-see destination for visitors to the Silan lands. Among the most renowned tourist resorts in the area, Lorica has several elements of interest, first and foremost the nearby Lake Arvo, with its countless opportunities for sports and tourist enjoyment and its enchanting landscapes. Among the various
attractions are imposing larch groves, well worth a visit, that line the town and descend along the mountain slopes to the shores of the lake. Another must-visit is the SilAvventurA park, which allows young and old alike to venture safely along acrobatic trails among the peaks of the Sila fir forests, amidst suspension bridges, ladders and acrobatic experiences. An electric battery powered boat service also operates on the lake. Among the attractions not to be missed is the bobsled track on rails set up near the hamlet of Cavaliere.
The name of the town betrays an ancient origin: the lorica was in fact the ancient armor of the Romans, who inhabited the Sila territories at the time of the Punic Wars, and who extracted pitch for their warships precisely from the wood of the Sila.
Information and contacts:
Sila National Park Authority – www.parcosila.it
Proloco Lorica – www.prolocolorica.it
Loricaly – www.loricaly.it
See tab in Outdoor Routes
Thanks to the chairlift and the new cable car built in 2018, the lifts that start from the hamlet of Cavaliere di Lorica allow visitors to reach the 1928-meter summit of Mount Botte Donato, an extraordinarily panoramic point from where, on clear days, the gaze reaches out to grasp the two seas surrounding Calabria, stretching as far as the Sicilian peak of Mount Etna. The facilities are
also active in the summer season, providing access to numerous hikes and mountain bike tours among Sila highest mountains. In winter, the facility serves ski enthusiasts, who have several blue to-black runs, a snowpark and even a cross-country ski trail here, which connects Mount Botte Donato with Mount Curcio along the route of the “Road of the Peaks” which is closed to traffic during the winter months.
The summit of Mount Botte Donato is also home to the refuge of the same name.
Information and contacts:
Proloco Lorica – www.prolocolorica.it
3) The Altar Stone and the Ariamacina Lake
See tab in Outdoor Routes
The facility, located halfway between the tourist resorts of Lorica and Silvana Mansio, was built by, the Silana Mountain Community, and is nestled in a typical mountain landscape, far from the main population centers.
The cross-country ski resort offers enthusiasts three loop circuits of 3, 5 and 7
kilometers in length, respectively.
See tab in Outdoor Routes
Lake Ariamacina or Alto Neto is a small reservoir built for hydroelectric purposes in 1953-55. It is located at an elevation of 1311, and is connected by conduit with the waters of the much larger Lake Cecita. The dam is 1,170 meters long, and contains a reservoir of about 4 million cubic meters of water. The body of water is fed by the Neto River, which flows from the slopes of Mount Botte Donato through the Valle dell'Inferno and which, after feeding the small lake, continues its course until it reaches the Arvo and joins the other tributaries heading to the Ionian Sea. Like the other artificial reservoirs in Sila, Lake Ariamacina has adapted to its surroundings so that it looks like a natural body of water. Located on the western slopes of Mount Volpintesta, it is an enchanted place, surrounded by the dense forests of beech, fir and larch pine and the extensive high-altitude grasslands. Despite its limited size, the lake is home each year to various representatives of migratory species that temporarily stop or even nest here. Among these should not be forgotten the great crested grebe (Podiceps cristatus), famous for its romantic courtship dance, in which pairs of birds seem to literally walk on the surface of the water, which has here one of the rare nesting sites in Italy.
4) The Cecita Lake and the Cupone Visitor Centre
Located at an elevation of 1130 has an area of 13 square kilometers, making it the largest of the reservoirs on the Sila Plateau. Completed in the early 1950s by damming the Mucone River (so named because the remains of a cow were found there) with an embankment dam more than a kilometer long, Lake Cecita feeds two hydroelectric power plants, in Acre and Bisognano, and part of its waters are used to irrigate the surrounding fields, which are mainly dedicated to the cultivation of the famous Sila potato. Although it was created for purely economic purposes, the lake has fit perfectly into the Sila environment to the point of becoming a tourist attraction thanks to the beauty of the landscapes by which it is surrounded and the considerable naturalistic interest of the species that populate it: migratory waterfowl, various species of fish, some of which have been introduced such as whitefish or rainbow trout, making it of particular interest to sport fishing enthusiasts; the presence of the otter, an important indicator of environmental quality, is also reported. The presence of this fascinating mustelid in the waters of Lake Cecita is a subject of
debate among zoologists, although its sporadic occurrence has been repeatedly reported. The existence of resident populations of this predator in Lake Cecita is currently being verified, although its temporary presence is undoubted, with two confirmed sightings in 2012. This would be an important signal, as the animal is an efficient indicator of environmental quality: extremely shy,
the otter avoids anthropized areas and lives only in waters that are completely free of pollution and perfectly oxygenated.
Near Camigliatello, in the Cupone locality, near Lake Cecita is the Naturalistic Observation Center now run by the Carabinieri Biodiversity Department of Cosenza. The locality name probably derives from an ancient cupone tree, for its dark, concave base because it was hollowed out by shepherds, who carved the bark in order to obtain resin for torches. A tree treated in this way was called “sluped”. The center offers a variety of opportunities for contact with nature, starting with numerous nature itineraries that touch on areas of special value, as well as guided tours and thematic routes such as the premises of the old sawmill, the Botanical Garden, which has full accessibility for the blind and people with motor disabilities, or the Geological Park, which offers a tour to discover the particularities of the rocks of the plateau. Inside the center, a nature museum equipped with educational workshops, multimedia space and conference room offers a cross-section of Silan nature, with special attention devoted to trees and wood, the living heritage of the area. Also branching off from the visitor center are a series of educational and nature trails leading to the Cupone archaeological site, found on the shores of Lake Cecita, where artifacts dated between the Neolithic and Eneolithic periods can be found, still being studied and unearthed by archaeologists.
Information and contacts:
Sila National Park Authority – www.parcosila.it
See tab in Outdoor Routes
From this beautiful thousand-year-old forest, which extends east of Lake Cecita, originate the plateau’s main streams: the Cecita, the Lese, and the Neto. The smaller streams, tributaries of the main rivers, develop among the roots of the alders, crossing daffodils, rushes and ferns that populate the dense undergrowth. Towering over the forest are the peaks of Altare at 1650, Pettinascura at 1708, Cozzo del Principe at 1629 and Serra Ripollata at 1682. The forest is dense and lush, and offers the striking “picture postcard”alpine views typical of Sila. (Report the Cupone-Fossiata hiking route here).
5) Towards the Gorges of the Trionto
Longobucco is 800 m above sea level and is located in the province of Cosenza, right in the heart of the Sila Greca, just 21 km from Lake Cecita. Although this municipality boasts fewer than 5,000 inhabitants, it is the third largest town in Calabria because it includes much of its territory, which is part of the Sila National Park. In short, it is a pretty village nestled between Sila Greca and Sila Grande, surrounded by mountains, rivers and lakes that are home to countless animal and plant species. Around the inhabited area there is, since the time of Magna Graecia, a large area of great mining importance related to silver mining, which flourished in the past. According to some scholars, the roots of this village date back to that very period! Indeed, it is possible to associate the description of the ancient city of Temesa with Longobucco thanks to Homer’s account in the Odyssey, precisely because of the conspicuous presence of silver mines along the Manna River. The whole territory of Longobucco, in fact, was rich in mine shafts, among which excelled the argentiferous galena extracted and processed by Sybarites, Crotonians and Romans to mint their coins. Longobucco, in addition to natural beauty and real explorations into history, also offers monuments and traditions that are fully worth seeing to have an exciting experience of the area.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Longobucco – www.comune.longobucco.cs.it
See tab in the ITINERARY GOLE DEL TRIONTO folder
