History, traditions and legends
A loop route, like a great embrace that encircles and protects the wonderful world of Sila. Landscape and nature are obviously in the foreground, but the real protagonists of this itinerary are the villages that lie at the foot of the plateau, with their history, traditions, ancient legends and encounters with the authenticity of the daily life of those who inhabit these places. A crossroads of men and ideas, Sila has given birth to or hosted historical figures who have shaped its identity. Joachim of Fiore, Saint Francis of Paola, Saint Angelo of Acri, the Bandiera brothers, just to mention the best known. The epic of the Silan spirit, however, does not end with these figures: every corner of the territory tells an infinite number of adventures that often take shape in the historical and artistic heritage or in the craft workshops where ancient traditions and knowledge are still handed down today.
Map
Technical specifications of the route
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Discover the values of the territory
Spirit
Art
Folklore
Authenticity
ITINERARY 1
Description of the itinerary and stages
The stages
Rende: the City of Museums
This time, our journey into the Silan universe begins from the outside. To get into this extraordinary world with the right spirit, it is also useful to look at it from the outside, with a panoramic perspective.
So let us start from the historic centre of Rende, a municipality that is part of the Sila LAG, but whose heart lies far from the plateau. The old houses of Rende overlook the Sila mountains from the top of a hill on the opposite bank of the Crati river. They are somehow like sentinels keeping watch and giving visitors the first announcement of what awaits them.
Every day, urban life is there at our feet, in the valley where the most modern core of the town virtually merges with the nearby city of Cosenza. As we begin to climb towards the old town, however, something changes: here is our first taste of nature and the countryside, and then we enter the narrow alleys and walls of a hamlet that bears witness to ancient traditions, customs and stories, just like those we will encounter in the next stages of our journey.
The route we are embarking on is one dedicated to the discovery of the area’s culture. For this reason, Rende, known as the City of Museums, is certainly an ideal starting point.
But let us go with order, following the timeline… The visit can only begin with the majestic castle around which the village eventually developed. Its stones take us back to the year 1000 and to the Norman domination. It was in fact Bohemond I, son of Robert Guiscard, who wanted it built and then turned it into a military base for the preparation of the victorious First Crusade, which he commanded in 1096.
From the top of the hill on which the castle is perched, we descend through the narrow streets of the hamlet… and retrace the course of the centuries. Here we are in the presence of the church of Santa Maria Maggiore, whose foundation dates back to the 12th century. Then the church of San Francesco di Assisi, built in the first half of the 16th century. Next to it is the ancient Franciscan monastery, which later became the conference centre of the University of Calabria. Finally, the sanctuary of Santa Maria di Costantinopoli and the church of the Rosary, dating back to the 17th century, which boasts fine decorative examples of the Baroque style.
For those who want to get in touch with the history and popular traditions of the town, the place to visit is certainly the Museo Civico (Civic Museum), set up in the premises of the ancient palace of the Zagarese noble family, in which testimonies of local folklore as well as the picture gallery dedicated to the painter Achille Capizzano are preserved. A short distance away is the Museo d’Arte dell’Otto e Novecento (MAON) (Museum of Art of the Nineteenth and Twentieth Century), a precious treasure chest of works signed by some of the most celebrated masters of modern and contemporary art such as Giorgio de Chirico, Umberto Boccioni, Man Ray, Salvador Dalì, George Braque, Picasso and Max Ernst. It is a feast of art that could already satiate even the most gluttonous gourmand, but the city of museums has not yet finished surprising us.
Leaving the historical centre of Rende and heading towards the Presila villages, we cannot miss the opportunity to visit the Museo del Presente (Museum of Present), located in the modern district of Roges, not far from the beautiful green area of the Parco Robinson (Robinson Park). The museum structure, covering over 2,500 square metres, is designed as a point of reference to offer locals and visitors recreational and cultural opportunities through the organisation of shows, conferences, photographic and contemporary art exhibitions, and book presentations
At the heart of Sila
Once the visit to Rende and its museums is over, we leave the bottom of the Crati valley to begin the ascent towards the heart of Sila. The quickest route would be that of the highway 107, but for an itinerary dedicated to the knowledge and culture of the area, slowness is much more appropriate than speed. We therefore prefer the modest, winding asphalt ribbon of the SP 229 provincial highway, which gently accompanies us along green slopes to the village of Castiglione Cosentino, a small, characteristic hamlet that heralds the tranquillity and bucolic atmosphere typical of Presila villages. A visit to the church dedicated to Saints Nicholas and Biagio and to the church of Saint Anthony with the annexed Capuchin Convent, in the upper part of the town centre, is an opportunity to get to know the village’s most historic places and enjoy splendid panoramic views. These are just the first tastes of the beauty that awaits us.
Climbing again along the SP 229 provincial highway we soon reach San Pietro in Guarano, a small village elevated like a terrace over the Crati valley. Its two main religious buildings are worth a visit: the church of Santa Maria di Gerusalemme, which seems to dominate the entire ancient hamlet from its position, and the church of Santa Maria della Consolazione.
The most propitious time to come here is certainly the great festivity of the 16th of August, St. Rocco’s Day, when U Dirròccu, the traditional mask of San Pietro, parades through the streets. It is made of papier-mâché with a skeleton made of reeds that can reach 3 metres in height, and is hollow on the inside to make room for the person who has to animate the performances. Its origin is not certain, but it seems that the name derives from “Don Rocco” (Dominus Roccus), an overbearing and wealthy local landowner, disliked by the people, who lived at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. The population, unable to act directly because they were subjugated by need, as a means of venting their anger, built a puppet caricature of the squire against whom they railed in satirical form. Today, the performance of U Dirròccu represents a great popular gathering, and every year the parade is accompanied by an immense crowd of participants as on no other occasion.
Leaving San Pietro, we pass through the hamlet of Redipiano, then continue along the SP 256 provincial highway that climbs through the woods of the Contrada Santo Janni. Our gaze wanders over the villages below. Curve after curve, Sila bursts forth with its sylvan power: it is the larch pine that returns as a protagonist. The natural torrents along the road give us back a still pure relationship with the land.
The Monte Scuro pass is the threshold that gives us access to the world of the plateau. Amidst increasingly dense and silent woods, we descend towards the Fago del Soldato (literally: the soldier’s beech), a place linked to the legend and epic of the brigands, who are said to have hanged from a beech tree here a guard who was on their trail.
Tragedy and hope, dark shadows and bright signs of life… as in any place of great suggestion and power, even in Sila, opposites confront and exalt each other. Thus, after the “noire” atmospheres of the Fago del Soldato, here is the colourful vitality of the hamlet of Moccone.
From here, our itinerary takes the SP 247 provincial highway to Acri, one of Sila’s spiritual and cultural capitals. But first we must linger a little longer in the forests of the plateau, where other stories, traditions and legends await us…
We therefore remain on the SP 256 provincial highway, following the directions for Camigliatello Silano. Here we see some silent ghosts appear among the trees, on the right along the road… These are the majestic, now under renovation, structures of what was once the glorious Colonia Federici, one of the first public health establishments in Calabria, founded in the early 20th century as a place of hospitalisation and rehabilitation where patients could find relief and benefit thanks to the healthy air and beautiful Sila landscape.
A short drive and we are in the centre of Camigliatello, one of the liveliest centres of Sila tourism. Here, the tourist who wants to linger and enjoy the atmosphere of the plateau is spoilt for choice: there are numerous possibilities for excursions on foot or by bicycle, and visits to the marvellous Tasso and Giants of Sila nature reserves are not to be missed. Then there is the train. That’s right: by booking in good time, you can experience the thrill of a real journey through time on the train pulled by the steam locomotive that leads from Moccone to San Nicola Silano, retracing a stretch of the ancient railway that once connected Cosenza to San Giovanni in Fiore.
To continue the itinerary through history, traditions and legends, however, we propose another means of transport: the ship. We are not crazy, in Sila you can do this too!
All you have to do is leave the centre of Camigliatello behind, following the SP 177 provincial highway, to come across the signs for the Nave della Sila (Sila Ship) …
What awaits us is an extraordinary museum dedicated to the history of emigration from Calabria and part of the larger project called Parco Old Calabria (Old Calabria Park), a literary journey through the history, society and artists that made the region internationally renowned. The premises of a former cow shed have been transformed into a steamship deck, complete with cabins for travellers. The different sections of the museum use interactive techniques to illustrate topics such as migration, the relationship with loved ones left behind in the town of origin, and the new world.
Not far from the museum is another “narrative monument”, Torre Camigliati, a typical example of Calabrian baronial residences in Sila. The Silan “casini” were the summer residences of the powerful and noble Calabrian families of the Kingdom of Naples. To this day, they represent the most tangible reminder of the power of the aristocratic dynasties that once came to Sila to refresh themselves from the scorching climate and from the hustle and bustle of the cities. Torre Camigliati is surrounded by a 60-hectare natural park and is home to a number of centuries-old trees. Amidst well-tended meadows and streams, the garden of the house also hosts a majestic specimen of California redwood. The meeting with this patriarch of overseas trees, which seems to have got on very well in the company of the Giants of Sila, is the moment to bid farewell to the plateau. The journey beckons us towards our next stop: we must tackle the long road to Acri.
Acri: the town on three hills
After having returned to Moccone, our route is marked by the SP 247 provincial highway, which points northwards, crossing fields where the famous Sila potato is cultivated and pastures where Podolica cows graze and Calabrian black pigs run around in a semi-wild state.
Suddenly the road narrows and the slope becomes steeper. The landscape of meadows and herds is replaced by the beech forest, which surrounds the visitors, allowing a glimpse of the farms that dot these places, before reaching the breathtaking stretch for which this route is worth taking, despite its roughness: after a continuous up and down, there, on the other side, overlooking the valley floor, is the glorious town of Acri, towering over the rocky buttress and dominating it. The overall view is like a film shot: the town, which rises 700 metres above sea level on three distinct hills, from which its heraldic coat of arms “Acrae, Tri Vertex, Montis Fertilis”, stands out above the valley.
The old town is Padìa, with its civic tower known as Rocca dei Bruzi; the other two peaks are the Greek quarter of Picitti and Odivella. Descending along the SP 247 provincial highway, every corner of the town is a joy for the eyes and mind: the first monument we encounter is the sanctuary of Sant’Angelo. The basilica, with all its grandeur, recounts the devotion of the inhabitants of Acri for the Franciscan Lucantonio Falcone, their fellow-citizen, known at the turn of the 17th and 18th centuries for his miracles, which earned him the elevation by Pope Leo XII in 1825 to the title of Beato (blessed) and, on the 15th of October 2017, the proclamation of Saint of the Catholic Church by Pope Francis.
The majesty of the basilica and the splendour of the works of art it houses tell of the devotion to the extraordinary figure of this exponent of the Franciscan spirit, whose history and miraculous deeds are recounted in the small but evocative museum on the premises of the former little church named after him, annexed to the present one.
Descending just a hairpin bend, you will find the signs for the second wonder of the town of waters and hills: the Castle of Acri, which has watched over the valleys of the Mucone and Calamo rivers since the prehistoric era of the Bruzi.
In the Middle Ages, the defensive walls encircled the Padìa district, forming a citadel that also included the church of Santa Maria Maggiore, another important religious monument in Acri, where the Romanesque and Baroque styles are juxtaposed.
Further down, we finally come to the main urban agglomeration and the town’s other religious monuments: the church of the Annunziata, the church and convent of the Capuchin Fathers, the church of San Nicola da Belvedere, in the old Casalicchio district, and finally the church of the Madonna del Rinfresco (literally: Our Lady of refreshment). Linked to the latter is the legend according to which the church was built in 1521 following an apparition of the Virgin Mary who caused a miraculous spring of very fresh water to gush there. Even today, the church is still the site of solemn celebrations, with the tradition of taking a bottle of water to one’s loved ones or drinking a glass of it asking the Madonna for help.
It is no coincidence that water is central to the devotion of the inhabitants of Acri. Since antiquity, the city was known to have springs in the area: Acri was actually called by the Romans Idrusia, “the city of waters”. Today, we can still see some beautiful fountains in the town’s well-kept central gardens. The oldest ones are the Fonte del Rinfresco, located in the ancient village of Judeica, and the Fonte di Pompio.
Before leaving Acri, a visit to its noble palaces is also recommended: Palazzo San Severino-Falcone, Palazzo Julia, Palazzo De Simone-Julia (an example of the so-called “case impalazzate”, buildings characterised by an externally single architectural construction but divided internally into three superimposed floors), Palazzo Spezzano, belonging to the homonymous family, and Palazzo Padula (named after the poet Vincenzo Padula, who was its owner and on whose main door can still be seen the coat of arms depicting an inkwell with two pens), Palazzo Astorino Giannone (with its library and 18th-century furniture), and Palazzo Civitate, linked to the kidnapping and murder, by three notorious bandits, of the noble family’s three male children and to the strenuous hunt they were given by their mother Rosanna La Pera, widowed by her husband Giuseppe, who died of grief at the loss of his offspring. Under the eaves wall, the three “caggiarole”, the cages that would have held the severed heads of the three Civitate killers, are still visible today.
Acri also preserves important craft traditions that have often developed into a true art form, especially thanks to the creative genius of people like Silvio Vigliaturo, the great master of glass fusing. His work has now become the subject of a permanent exhibition in the MACA, the Silvio Vigliaturo Museum of Contemporary Art.
Before resuming the journey, it is worth taking a small souvenir with you. Our advice is to visit some local markets to buy one of the traditional wicker baskets. Baskets, hand baskets, latticeworks, còfini and fiscèlle, as well as hats and cabinets of various shapes, are one of the most characteristic handicrafts of the area. They are made by skilful hands with great expertise, creativity and quality, twisting and weaving straw and softened branches of willow, chestnut, palm or even reed. A nice souvenir of the visit and a useful tool to collect the delicious food and wine products of Sila, which you are sure to accumulate along the way.
In Acri, it is also possible to visit three internationally appreciated permanent art installations, designed and developed by the Siluna Ets cultural association to encourage collective reflection on climate change. The first, created by Michelangelo Pistoletto, is called “Il Terzo Paradiso” (The Third Paradise) and is composed of 58 larch pine trees, the symbol of Sila, located in the Parco Caccia. Work of the Cracking Art Group, on the other hand, are the 30 regenerated plastic swallows installed on the main façade of Acri’s Town Hall as well as the two regenerated plastic wolves in the atrium of Palazzo Sanseverino Falcone. At the base of the Municipal Tower in the Padia district stands the Antimatter Stone, a Corten steel work by Sebastiano Pelli.
Longobucco: town of silver, textiles and brigands
We resume our journey through history, traditions and legends along the SS 660 highway heading east. Amidst various ups and downs, the road takes us back to the plateau, gradually leaving the cultivated fields behind to bring us back into the unchallenged realm of the Silan woods. Crossing these places means retracing the footsteps of travellers of the past, such as Norman Douglas, the English traveller and novelist who, in the early 1900s, with his book Old Calabria, made Sila a privileged destination on the Grand Tour, the educational journey through the beauties of Italy, a must for every descendant of the wealthy families of Europe. One of the most spectacular and adventurous stages of Douglas’s journey is precisely the one we are also travelling through.
Having reached the hamlet of Cava di Melis, we can easily understand the reason for so much amazement. Having left the SS 660 highway, we take the SS 177 highway, which accompanies us on the steep descent towards Longobucco. We soon find ourselves immersed in the depths of the Fossiata Forest, one of the largest on the plateau, where we can see some of its oldest and most majestic trees, rightly protected by the establishment of the Giants of Gallopane Reserve. In the dense dark of these woods, the footsteps and voices of the brigands still resound, legendary and ambiguous protagonists of the Silan epic, always poised between the role of defenders of the peasants from the arrogance of the landowners and that of ruthless and violent plunderers… One of the most famous among them was Domenico Straface, known as “Palma”, the “King of the Forest”, who made Longobucco one of the operational bases of his raids.
Letting ourselves be carried away by these suggestions, we arrive in sight of the village, perched at the top of the wide valley of the Trionto river, in the direction of the Ionian coast, an incomparable balcony over the Greek Sila region. The deeds of Palma and his followers are the common thread that introduces us to the village. Right here, in 2011, the municipality created the Centro di documentazione sul Brigantaggio (Centre for Documentation on Brigandage), a very interesting museum centre housed inside the old Capuchin Convent, at the Casa delle Associazioni e delle Culture (House of Associations and Cultures).
The same building houses the beautiful Ecomuseo dell’Artigianato Silano e della Difesa del suolo (Sila Handicrafts and Soil Defence Ecomuseum), an absolutely unmissable journey through the history, traditions and natural environment of the Sila National Park territory. Among the many insights offered by the museum, there are ample references to two of Longobucco’s most excellent and lively craft traditions: the silver and textile manufacturing.
Longobucco is in fact a town with a very ancient history, inextricably linked to its precious mines, exploited since Roman times. Here, from the bowels of the earth, argentiferous galena was mined, from which the precious metal was extracted, at first mainly used for minting coins.
Over the centuries, the inhabitants of Longobucco went from being simple miners to skilled craftsmen, known throughout Italy for the magnificence of their work, a tradition that the town still proudly perpetuates today.
It is in the Mother Church of Santa Maria Assunta that some of these precious works are kept, such as the Baroque-style cross with silver sheets and finely chiselled pieces, a holy water bucket with an aspergillum, a thurible, chalices, a censer-holder and more. Inside the church, now a sanctuary, are other jewels of art that are definitely worth seeing. These include the famous icon of the “Madonna dei Carbonai”, depicting a black Virgin Mary with Child.
Those who wish to touch the evidence of the ancient mining tradition and see the evidence of the miners’ hard life have only to walk along the “Via delle miniere” (the Mining Route), the didactic-naturalistic itinerary promoted by the municipality that, through landscapes and panoramic views of great beauty, touches the places where silver galena was extracted, accompanying the visitor with very useful information panels.
Longobucco, however, is also the town of looms. Alongside the noble art of silver manufacturing, the village has from time immemorial been the heart of a humbler, but equally fascinating, craft tradition. In fact, the women of the village became skilled weavers, capable of making unparalleled use of decidedly poor raw materials such as raw silk, wool waste and broom fibres. The work at the loom, already long and exhausting in itself, was still only part of what led to the creation of textiles. It was necessary to collect the raw materials to be spun and to climb the slopes of the cliffs to gather the broom, from which a fibre was then made that could be worked on the loom. Another important stage of work was dyeing, which was mainly done with local raw materials, such as special soils rich in iron oxides, herb extracts, tree barks and roots. The knowledge and skills of the housewives were such that they were able to produce textiles in bright and varied colours, such as red, orange, yellow, green, light blue, blue, brown and black. Their legacy was inherited and exploited entrepreneurially in the early 20th century by local artisans such as Eugenio Celestino, whose workshop is still active today in the alleyways of the village and houses the Museo della Ginestra (Museum of Broom), which exhibits various crafted textiles such as bedspreads, carpets, and tapestries, and documents the entire processing cycle from the plant to the yarns.
Walking through the narrow streets of Longobucco, every glimpse is a reminder of ancient stories and legends. Such is the case of the fascinating Palazzo Citino, with its beautiful façade decorated with characteristic masks. The rooms of the palace offer another opportunity to learn more about local culture and traditions. Here, too, we find exhibition spaces dedicated to the art of weaving and silver craftsmanship as well as the museum dedicated to the memory of Bruno da Longobucco, one of the most illustrious surgeons of the Middle Ages, considered a forerunner of modern microsurgery.
The symbol and pride of the town is the imposing bell tower, located in the central square, opposite the Mother Church. Its origin dates back to Norman-Swabian times and its original function was that of a watchtower, from which lookouts could glimpse the arrival of Saracen raiders from the sea and alert the population with the sound of bells. This monument too has something to do with the epic of brigands: here, in fact, the severed heads of outlaws captured and executed by guards were hoisted. A violent and cruel fate that of the Silan Robin Hoods, which has remained deeply imprinted in the local imagination, which still today passes down mysterious and fascinating legends such as the one according to which, among the caverns of the “Pietra ra Gna Zita”, the rocky pinnacle that rises a short distance from the city, is the precious treasure of the brigand Palma and his gang…
Before leaving the town, it is mandatory to try another of its typical features, this time in the gastronomic sphere, namely u sacchiettu, the rind stuffed with the meat of the pig’s foreleg, a masterpiece of Longobucco cuisine, whose name derives from the shape it takes once it is sewn up. A real treat for the palate!
Bocchigliero and Campana, among the Greek Sila woodlands
From the town of Longobucco, the SS 177 dir highway descends directly and smoothly towards the valley. As always, we prefer more winding and slower routes, which are better suited to a journey of discovery and encounter with the territory. We therefore follow the route of the old highway that, as soon as we leave the village, offers us on the left a glimpse of the narrow gorges carved into the rock by the Trionto river, a narrow and perilous passage, through which Norman Douglas ventured among the first, during his epic journey, and which today offers trekking lovers the opportunity for spectacular excursions.
Continuing along the left orographic bank, the valley at our feet becomes wider and wider, and the stream, free to expand, announces what, as it approaches the Ionian coast, will become one of the most imposing torrents of southern Italy. We cross its course to the opposite bank, following the directions for Ortiano. The road climbs again between steep hairpin bends, and the forest is again the undisputed protagonist of the landscape: we are on the edge of the great Basilicò forest, a precious biogenetic reserve, where an extraordinary variety of flowers and shrub species thrive.
The small mountain hamlet of Ortiano appears to us almost like an island of humanity in the middle of a green sea. However, the journey is still long, and the stop cannot be prolonged. We cruise along a magnificent panoramic ridge, on the edge of the ocean-forest. Finally, we reach the junction with the SP 255 provincial highway, where we find the directions for Bocchigliero.
The village welcomes us with its typical mediaeval layout, in a tangle of narrow alleys and houses gathered around the Mother Church of Santa Maria Assunta, but it is from much earlier times that men have settled on this spur, rising to almost 900 metres above sea level amidst unspoilt forests. The first settlement dates back to the tenacious Bruzi peoples, who, however, had to surrender before the arrival of the Roman superpower. The Romans, after the defeat of their enemies, recolonised the settlement, baptising it with the name of Bocchilieurus, from which its current name derives.
The subsequent history is that of a small centre of farmers and shepherds, well told by the Museo della civiltà contadina (Museum of Rural Life) housed in the premises of the former municipal market.
Like and more than many other mountain centres in Calabria, Bocchigliero witnessed, during the 20th century, the phenomenon of emigration, which reduced its inhabitants from around 4,000 to the current 1,300. The local people have opposed depopulation with a meritorious and obstinate social and cultural vitality. This is demonstrated by the shops in the historic centre, which promote craft traditions and typical products made by local companies that, due to the level of quality they have achieved, have been included in the “Atlante dei Prodotti tipici dei Parchi Italiani” (Atlas of Typical Products of the Italian Parks) drawn up by the Italian Ministry for the Environment and Land Protection.
Bocchigliero is also a small town of art. The stately homes, visible along the town streets, are certainly worth admiring. These include Palazzo Tucci, home to a beautiful Modern Art Gallery, which houses the paintings and sculptures of numerous Calabrian artists. A visit to the Exhibition of Sacred Art, set up in the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament in the Mother Church, is also very interesting. The most obvious symbol of the deep local devotion to the Virgin Mary is the church of the Madonna de Jesu, or Madonna delle Nevi, located upstream from the town, whose history is linked to beliefs that are still strongly felt by the population today.
However, a visit to the Bocchigliero area would not be complete without a taste of its enchanting natural surroundings. The particular conformation of the territory, which varies from mountain altitudes to hilly heights, offers an extraordinary alternation of environments and opportunities for excursions of all difficulties. The valleys cut by the Ortiano and Laurenzana torrents offer the sight of gorges and waterfalls of the purest water. To allow everyone to enjoy this green heritage, the municipality has created a special touristic equipped area in the hamlet of Marmare, where an environmental education centre, horse-riding trails, a campsite suitable for campers and caravans, and an astronomical observatory are located.
After having discovered also the most fascinating corners of nature in Bocchigliero, here we are on the road again. We follow the hairpin bends of the SP 155 provincial highway that crosses the ridge to the east of the town, passing under the enigmatic stones of the Mazza del Diavolo (Devil’s Mace). The landscape is wide and sunny. Pastures and woods alternate in wonderful harmony and on the horizon appears our next destination: the hamlet of Campana.
Just like Bocchigliero, this is a centre that has its roots in the most ancient history. Tradition even identifies it with the ancient polis of Kalasarna, founded, according to the legend, by the Homeric hero Philoctetes. What is certain is that here too, among these heights, the ancient Bruzi peoples found hospitality, as testified by archaeological findings in various locations.
Very little of this antiquity can be seen at the entrance to the village. What greets us are relatively modern dwellings, straight and well-ordered streets: where is the intricate tangle of history? In order to understand, one must penetrate into the centre of the village, up to the large bell tower that gives the village its name (“campana” is in fact the Italian word for “bell”). Here another world begins. A world of silence and memories…
The ancient heart of the village today is in fact a ghost town, completely uninhabited. The earthquakes that shook the area at the beginning of the last century, in particular the one in 1905, caused such extensive damage that the inhabitants had to abandon their homes. Many migrated elsewhere, while the remainder of the population rebuilt the village in areas outside the old centre. Wandering around the old streets and abandoned houses today is a very special and unsettling experience…
But the mystery and fascination of Campana go far beyond this. Leaving the village and heading south along the SS 108 ter highway, we come across the enigmatic Pietre dell’Incavallicata, a rebus that researchers have not yet been able to solve completely.
Two enormous rocks present themselves before us. One, more than six metres high, has the appearance of an elephant, while the other resembles the legs of a warrior of even more mammoth dimensions. Are they a random work of time and nature that human imagination transforms into animal and anthropomorphic forms, or the result of some titanic sculptural work? Experts are divided on the subject, and the legends that have flourished around the colossal “statues” certainly do not help to unravel the enigma. Perhaps the best thing to do is to stop in contemplation and let our imagination run wild, allowing it to take us to the places and times we most desire. There are mysteries in the world made to remain mysteries…
After this umpteenth taste of Silan wonders, the journey continues. The SS 108 ter highway, the SP 204 provincial highway and the SP 255 provincial highway mark the track that leads us back to the Greater Sila, through the large woodland area of the Macchia della Giumenta State Reserve.
We are back in the realm of trees and wilderness, but once again we return to the foot of the plateau, among the homes of men, to visit one of the places that best represent the culture, traditions and spirit of the Silan villages. Taking the SP 208 provincial highway, we begin our descent towards San Giovanni in Fiore.
San Giovanni in Fiore, spiritual capital of Sila
Let us descend from Sila, a sanctuary of nature, to embrace a sanctuary of the spirit.
A visit to San Giovanni in Fiore can only begin from one of the most representative symbols of the area’s culture and spirituality: the Florense Abbey, the most important religious building in the province of Cosenza and one of the most renowned in all of southern Italy, created on the model of the Jure Vetere founded a few years earlier by the great Abbot Joachim of Fiore and his monks, proponents of one of the great renewal movements of medieval Christian religiosity.
Joachim was already revered as a mystic and blessed by his contemporaries, so much so that Dante Alighieri, in the 12th canto of Paradise, included him in the ranks of the blessed wise men, mentioning him in a famous tercet: “… e lucemi dallato, / il calavrese abate Giovacchino / di spirito profetico dotato” (“and at my side is shining the abbot of Calabria, Joachim, who with prophetic spirit was endowed”).
The Florense Abbey was built in 1215 on a rocky ridge overlooking the Neto river; the monastery, still in good condition, is of Romanesque origin and lived through a period of great splendour until the end of the 18th century, playing a key role in the diffusion of Joachimite ideals and transforming this small centre of the Sila into a point of reference for mysticism and pantheistic Christianity in the Middle Ages.
The austere simplicity of the church of Santa Maria Assunta, attached to the abbey, is the clearest mirror of Joachimite spirituality. The rough, dark Silan granite, left exposed on the interior walls of the large nave, and the flat apsis with its four circular windows, create an extraordinary contrast of light and shadow as well as a unique atmosphere.
One of the wings of the Abbey also houses an interesting Demological Museum dedicated to the economy, work and social history of the area. The exhibition of photographs by Saverio Marra, taken between 1914 and 1946, is very impressive. Other sections are dedicated to the traditions of gold manufacturing and broom and linen weaving, sheep farming and work in the fields, the furnishing of peasant houses and the traditional costumes of San Giovanni in Fiore.
Seven ancient artefacts were recently found during the works for the opening of a section of the abbey’s underground passages located under the mother church. These include in particular the remains of weapons and a head of a Gorgon with snakes.
Around the abbey, the shady rooms, the small shops selling typical products and local handicrafts, from carpet-making to wood-working, and the creation of ceramics and typical gastronomic delicacies, are well worth more than a short stop.
Particularly worth of notice are some craft workshops found before entering the small square, with their signs carved in wood: the first is the Scuola Tappeti Caruso (Caruso Carpet School), where you can admire the ozaturi a pizzulune and the typical trappigne blankets or the n’cullerata. In addition to traditional work, the business specialises in using natural fibres such as broom, wool, linen and cotton and in designing large tapestries with spiritual themes: this is the case of the carpet remake of Joachim of Fiore’s Liber Figurarum, the best-known work of figurative theology of the Middle Ages. Particularly noteworthy is the fabric created in 1999 by Domenico Caruso, carrying out a feat that has no equals in the whole of Italy: it is a warp of noble metal fibres (gold or silver), woven using a special loom, the fruit of the ingenuity of the master and his father Salvatore. The loom they created makes it possible to overcome the main difficulty arising from the lack of elasticity of metal fibres. The innovative fabric made in San Giovanni in Fiore was then used to forge bags studded with precious stones exported as far as the Middle East, the world’s cradle of weaving.
The crafting of stone and granite, on the other hand, is the speciality of artisans such as Domenico Madia, who perpetuate an ancient tradition of the area. The inhabitants of the plateau have always been interested in this activity, precisely because of the abundance of raw material present, represented by the erratic boulders scattered in the area since immemorial times. Characterised by a rough grain, with black and white dots, the main composition of granite is made up of mica and quartz, elements that make it an extremely resistant material to compression and weathering. Historically, a veritable school of stonemasons operated in San Giovanni in Fiore. Testimony to their skill are the town’s portals: that of the monastery, with an early Renaissance triumphal arch framing, the portal of the church of S. Maria delle Grazie, with two pairs of lions supporting its weight, and finally that of Palazzo Lopez, where the Bandiera brothers were imprisoned.
The goldsmith’s workshop of the Spadafora family has been handing down the jewellery tradition from father to son since the 18th century. To this day, the Spadafora family still works on moulds made from cuttlefish bones, modelling the jewellery with the bellows under the light of oil lamps. In particular, today’s head of the family Giovambattista Spadafora has turned his story into a globally recognised and appreciated brand, and his workshop has become, since the 1950s, a point of reference for personalities from all over the world: Sophia Loren, Giulio Andreotti, Roberto Benigni, Giancarlo Giannini, the royals of Belgium, all the way to the Holy Roman Church, which not only ordered jewellery for Pope Wojtyla and Pope Benedict XVI, but also allowed the artist to achieve an almost unique result: with more than 150 crowns for statues of the Virgin Mary created throughout his career, Giovambattista achieved an inimitable record that earned him the title of “Goldsmith of the Madonnas”.
After visiting the workshops, it is inevitable to lose oneself in the streets leading up from this pretty centre in the Sila countryside. From the urban amphitheatre, a number of alleys lead up to the mountain on which San Giovanni in Fiore clings almost with religious devotion.
From San Giovanni to Pietrafitta: in the footsteps of Joachim
The contact with the transcendent characterises the route that from San Giovanni in Fiore takes us back to the Sila plateau, heading towards the Arvo Lake: the SS 108 bis highway rises gently and tortuously like the vocation of a man of the church: these are, not by chance, the same places touched by Abbot Joachim in his wanderings far and wide across Sila, to bear witness to his devotion and bring comfort to the faithful.
A theologian, writer, but above all a witness to the word of God, Joachim was a wandering monk who, as one of the many legends that have arisen around his figure recounts, returned from a pilgrimage to the Holy Land with the Holy Grail, which from that day on illuminated his path, guiding him in the creation of the Florense congregation, of which he was the undisputed inspiration and religious guide. A confraternity that carried forward his original interpretations of the Holy Scriptures and allowed his innovative ideas, especially with regard to the relationship between the Old and New Testaments, to represent for Christendom the way to a new era known as “of the Holy Spirit”.
But it was perhaps in these woods, more than in convents and abbeys, that Joachim found contact with the Divine, the forest and nature in its primeval state being the clearest manifestation of the Almighty’s existence.
Along the road, the rustic landscape immediately gives way to the two absolute kings of this stretch of Sila: the mountain, imposing and granite, with its gorges and broken flanks, wounded and scarred by time and weather, and the flora. A flora that includes, in turn, two undisputed rulers: the larch pine and the broom. In the curves dividing Rovale, it is common to pass through corridors of shade created by the wild foliage of the pines and, after a few kilometres of darkness, to be blinded by the cascades of ginestra (Italian broom), which explode in all their chromatic power at the end of spring, honouring the tourist with moments of pure euphoria.
Inebriated by the panorama, it is almost automatic to be surprised by the vision in the distance of the Arvo Lake, peeking through the centuries-old trunks of the Silan trees. The flora becomes mountainous again, and the landscape is typical of the forest. Placid, the Arvo Lake seems to be waiting for us.
A visit to the charming tourist village of Lorica, built right on the shores of the lake, is a must. Even in this place of serenity and carefreeness, it is possible to rediscover the subtle thread of that spirituality that hovers over our entire route. Just behind the town of Lorica, in fact, several paths lead off into the silence of the woods. All of them are advisable for hiking enthusiasts, but one of them is particularly suited to our itinerary: it is the Sentiero dell’Abate (Abbot’s Path), which probably retraces the same route along which Joachim set out so many times on his journeys to the Presila towns.
After having completed the visit to Lorica, it is advisable not to continue along the northern shore of the lake, but to return to Rovale and, from there, to take the secondary road that runs along the entire southern side of the Arvo Lake, offering splendid views of the great reservoir and suggestive corners that invite one to stop and enjoy precious moments of relaxation in the shade of the larches and pines. Having passed the hamlet of Pino Collito, a large hairpin bend leads us to Quaresima. From there, the SS 108 bis highway turns south. We continue instead in a westerly direction along the SP 244 provincial highway. Descending amidst breathtaking panoramas and views of the Cosenza valley, we begin to glimpse, in the distance, the historic centres of the towns of the Presilan strip.
Scenic balconies overlooking the valley below provide a brief glimpse of the reality of the Presila villages: dominating the crests of the hills on which they are built, the historic centres of these hamlets stand out against the infinite sky as guardians of the territory, their presence seeming to mark the entrance to an epic kingdom, the last stronghold of an almost mythological reality: Sila. Passing through these villages means encountering small and great jewels of art and architecture, often little known and exploited, but, above all, coming into contact with the daily reality of the people who live at the foot of the plateau. Sitting at the table of a café or a typical restaurant, lingering in the squares or strolling through the narrow streets and shops of the villages, is the best way to savour the simple and genuine Silan hospitality, savouring live those traditions and that rootedness to the territory that are the mainstays of our itinerary.
Among the Presila towns
Here we are, then, in Pietrafitta, the town where Abbot Joachim spent the last days of his mortal life. Here we find the church of San Martino di Giove in Canale, or Grancia di San Martino, founded in the 10th century by a group of basilian hermits led by Saint Ilarione, who subsequently left the place to escape the Saracen invasions and moved to central Italy. This holy place included the small convent where Joachim lived and died. His death in 1202 consigned this place to history: here his remains were kept for several years before being transported to San Giovanni in Fiore, in the Florense Abbey. Restoration work has made it possible to identify the walls of the original structure of the church: the nave has been entirely reopened and the roof with exposed trusses restored, as well as the small side chapel and the annexed building that could have served as a dwelling.
Keeping in line with the Franciscan preaching message that was later Joachimite, it is worth visiting the Sant’Antonio convent, founded in 1612 by Father Pietro da Cassano. Among the first religious who honoured it with their presence stands, heavenly figure, Saint Humilis of Bisignano. After the suppression of 1866, the convent was redeemed from the state property in 1890 and became first a house of probation and then of novitiate. In 1902, the Seraphic College was opened there and became a house of formation for aspirants to the Order of Friars Minor.
Leaving Pietrafitta, one comes to the municipality of Casali del Manco. A brief visit provides an insight into the 16th-century church of Santa Maria di Monte Oliveto, in the hamlet of Pedace, built by the local friars; the main façade features a stone arched doorway surmounted by a single lancet window, while the single-nave interior houses the polyptych on canvas signed by Hippolitus Burghesius and dated 1612. The beautiful Convent of Saint Francis of Paola, with its elegant cloister, is also worth a visit.
We then arrive in the Serra Pedace hamlet, with its beautiful Loggia, the church of the Immacolata, and the Palazzi Gentilizi (noble palaces). To fully enjoy the beauty of this ancient village of pre-Roman origin, it is advisable to climb up to the sports field and follow the road that proceeds towards the coast. Taking the first right, you descend Via Giovanni XXIII and, after a votive chapel, you can stop to enjoy some of the best water in the Sila region, which flows freely from three fountains overlooking a small square decorated with black and white bricks.
Continuing towards the coast and turning in the direction of Casole Bruzio, you can admire the whole of Cosenza from this village, which is a natural balcony offering unparalleled views between the houses. From Casole it is also possible to make a diversion to visit the characteristic hamlet of Trenta.
Moving on, we come to the village of Spezzano Piccolo, where it is possible to visit the Gullo Library located in the birthplace of Fausto Gullo, known as the Minister of Peasants for his commitment to agrarian reform against landlordism, and then to the municipality of Spezzano della Sila, with its steep and characteristic narrow streets, its small central square and the terrace bordering it offering an unbeatable view of greenery. Here it is a must to stop and enjoy the refreshing coolness that is easy to experience even in the height of summer and taste the coffee gazzosa, one of the most traditional and beloved drinks of the Sila territory. Before continuing on to visit the remaining Presila municipalities, it is advisable to visit the mediaeval churches of San Biagio and San Pietro and to stop at the splendid 15th-century convent erected in honour of Saint Francis of Paola, with its beautiful church, elevated to the status of sanctuary in 2018. The recently restored structure of the convent offers spaces and services that can be used by the town community and the pilgrims who, in large numbers, flock to the celebrations in honour of the saint every year. The Spezzano convent is chronologically the third of the churches built by the saint, after those in Paola, his hometown, and Paterno, the town of his trusted collaborator Brother Paul, but it is the first in the world within the Franciscan order of Charitas. The festival of Saint Francis is the feast of Spezzano par excellence, and from time immemorial the celebrations have always been extraordinary. The festival begins on the ninth day before the third Sunday in September, with the noisy roll of the drums, which expert players beat through the streets of the village, preceded and followed by fleets of children, fascinated by their rhythm. The roll of the drums is joined by the tolling of the convent bell and that of the powerful bangs produced by the “colpi scuri” (literally: “dark blows”) firecrackers. The uniqueness of the event was, and still is, represented by the fact that it takes the strength of about a dozen people to operate the now centuries-old huge bell. On the evening of the same day, the “opening” takes place: with the same ritual, the faithful flock to greet the saint in his magnificently decorated church. On the following day, Saturday, the novenary begins with a series of sermons given by leading preachers from the region. The actual festival lasts three days, from Saturday to Monday, with popular games.
Our journey then touches Celico, the birthplace of Abbot Joachim, whose home is thought to correspond to the present church of the Annunziata. It is here that, until the day of their dispersal, the relics of the great Abbot were kept, which the Minim Father Friar Giacomo da Celico had obtained from the Fathers of the Monastery of San Giovanni in Fiore. Near the church is also the stone where, according to tradition, Joachim used to stop in meditation.
Worth visiting are the church of San Michele Arcangelo, the church of the Madonna del Carmine, the Capuchin Convent, and the many glimpses of the village, with its monuments, fountains, alleyways, lanes and charming squares.
Leaving Celico, the road lowers in altitude, descending towards Cosenza and encountering the villages of Rovito and Lappano.
The first village has remained among the pages of history marking the Unification of Italy, due to the events linked to the Vallone di Rovito, where the Bandiera brothers, the well-known Italian patriots who shared Mazzini’s ideals, met their death in 1844. But the name of the small Silan village is also in the history of philosophy: here, in fact, the great intellectual Tommaso Campanella was born. Today, Rovito is a sunny, orderly village characterised by terraces and flower gardens. Nature here amazes again: the climate is milder, almost Mediterranean, and the northern Sila landscape seems a distant memory. Olive and fig trees are the absolute protagonists of the bush, chasing each other between the curves and the houses. From any angle, the view of the valley below takes your breath away. Highlight of this experience is a visit to the church of Santa Barbara, which, like a lighthouse, dominates the town from above and seems almost to lean out ideally towards the Tyrrhenian Sea, a reminder of the role that faith plays for the people of Sila.
Descending along the roads of Rovito, we reach Lappano. The landscape is barer, now seeming to be in the countryside of some remote island in the Mediterranean, the curves unravel gently and accompany us on a flat road to our next destination: the village is a cluster built around the ancient historic centre, now partly abandoned but still fascinating, with a beautiful 15th-century church dedicated to the patron saint, San Giovanni Battista. The excellent exposure means that Lappano is always well illuminated by the sun’s rays, while the panorama is simply breathtaking: looking out from a balcony in Lappano means admiring the entire Sila plateau on one side and then gradually scanning almost the entire province of Cosenza, with a complete view of the urban area of the provincial capital, as far as Mount Cucuzzo and the Pollino plateau.
We then reach the ancient village of Zumpano to visit this small open-air museum with its churches, monuments and historical buildings.
In the central square of the village is Palazzo Ritacca-Valentini, currently the seat of the Town Hall. In front of the palace is the beautiful church of San Giorgio Martire, erected around 1480, on the model of the Mother Church of Cosenza, by the Blessed Francesco Marino from Zumpano. The three-nave building is in Gothic-Romanesque style with some Baroque expressions, and features rounded dividing arches supported by tuff pillars, with a 16th-century wooden coffered ceiling covering the main nave. At the end of the apse, on the high altar, is a precious wooden triptych by Bartolomeo Vivarini, while on the holy beamed arch is a beautiful wooden crucifix from the 1600s. Before leaving the village, the MAE ethnographic museum is definitely worth a visit. The exhibition space is divided into three sections: contemporary art, ethnography and a multimedia educational area for children, which, with the help of augmented reality, offers visitors a completely new and still uncommon educational experience in the Calabrian museum system.
Accompanied by these awesomeness, we return to San Pietro in Guarano and Castiglione Cosentino, finally arriving back in Rende, thus concluding our itinerary as an ideal ring that encircles the marvellous world of Sila and guards it, preserving the memory of its history, traditions and legend.
All points of interest
1) Departure – Rende: the City of Museums
Rende is a town full of wonders. It is located near Cosenza and has a medieval flavour all its own. It was built in antiquity, on top of a hill, in the Norman era. Founded in 1095 as a stronghold by order of Boemondo d’Altavilla, it underwent major transformations over time due to various dominations, including the Bourbons and the French. It owes its name to the latter: Renne, in fact, means kingdom in old French! The variety of cultures, as well as the customs and traditions that have passed through it have contributed to it becoming an important university town since 1970. The flourishing of arts and crafts within it, especially between the 19th and 20th centuries, made it to all intents and purposes, the city of museums. Famous artists, such as Giorgio de Chirico and Mattia Preti, still adorn it with their works. Its marvels are many, but there are four in particular that capture the attention of every visitor. These are the Norman castle, the many museums, Rossini Park where the town hall is located, and Robinson Park. Added to these attractions are the numerous churches and the botanical garden of the University of Calabria.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Rende – www.comune.rende.cs.it
www.rendecentrostorico.it
The Rende Castle is of ancient Norman origin. It was built in 1095 in the historical centre of the city, and exactly on the highest point of the hill where it stands. Bohemond I of Antioch, son of Robert Guiscard, decreed the laying of its foundation stone, with the intention of guarding and defending the area under his jurisdiction from invaders. According to the sources of the time, the function of the castle had already been planned years earlier, but in a different way. The intention was to erect a series of strongholds in the Crati valley for defensive purposes. However, the castle of Rende, once built, was used as a military base for the preparation of the first crusade, which took place in 1096, commanded by Bohemond I himself. The monument’s fame grew considerably, making it rise to the role of a symbol for the town community. Further proof of this is its representation on today’s municipal coat of arms. From the outside, the castle appears as imposing as it is impenetrable. The walls more than two metres thick and the particular architectural conformation made the construction of a moat for further protection of the structure unnecessary, a practice that was usual for the Normans at the time. Looking at it from the outside, one can see small windows and loopholes from which archers were able to shoot arrows, pitch and darts at the besiegers without being hit in turn. Resisting all attacks, the imposing manor house later passed to the Swabians and from them to the Angevins and then to the Aragonese, ending up in the hands of the Adorno counts. More recently, it was transformed into a stately palace, becoming the property of illustrious noble families such as the Alarçon de Mendoza and Magdalone families. The latter resided there until the transformation of the historical building into the seat of the city municipality, i.e. until 1922.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Rende – www.comune.rende.cs.it
www.rendecentrostorico.it
The Church of Santa Maria Maggiore is to all intents and purposes the city’s cathedral. It is a 12th century building, characterised by a very simple façade on which a tall rose window stands out. At first glance, one notices its Latin cross plan divided into three naves, but much has been rebuilt since the original construction. Unfortunately, the church suffered considerable damage in the earthquakes. In order to make it safe, those responsible for the work, including Raffaele De Bartolo, rebuilt the barrel vault above the nave and the columns, replacing the pre-existing ones in tufa with mighty masonry artefacts. Inside the church, visitors can admire numerous religious statues made of marble or wood, as well as Saint Anthony of Padua by Giuseppe Grana and paintings by Cristoforo Santanna.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Rende – www.comune.rende.cs.it
www.rendecentrostorico.it
The church of St Francis of Assisi together with the convent of the Franciscan Observants dates back to the 16th century. It is still rich in monastic mysticism thanks to its important size, mitigated by the measured architectural elegance that recalls the humility typical of the Franciscan order. Visiting it, one perceives an aura of peace and serenity that comforts the heart. To the right of the main entrance, the church is flanked by the above-mentioned building of the old convent, whose premises – restored and modernised – have been used by the University of Calabria as a conference centre, welcoming scholars from all over. The construction, begun in 1525, was inaugurated in 1533 after papal approval. In 1569 and 1638, the building was severely tested by earthquakes. Reconstruction took place in 1647, as evidenced by a plaque inside the cloister. Following the domination of successive dominations, the convent underwent alternating phases, but was finally suppressed in 1867. The interior of the church is beautifully decorated in Baroque style. The following four main works can be admired:
The Madonna and Child by an unknown southerner – 18th century canvas, (m 2.38×1.50). The painting celebrates the glorification of the Mother of God, depicted against a heavenly background with the divine Child clasped to her breast and flanked by St. Vincent Ferreri.
The Pieta by Cristoforo Santanna – 18th century canvas, (m 2.38×1.50). The artist depicts the moment of the ‘Pieta’ in which the body of Jesus is laid on the lap of the Holy Mother. Dominant is the figure of Jesus’ body, slimmed for the torture, but around him can be seen the three Marys (the Mother, Mary Magdalene and Mary of Cleophas) as well as Salome.
The Immaculate Virgin between two angels by Francesco De Mura – 18th century canvas (m2.80×1.70). Here the Immaculata is depicted in a pink dress, surmounted by a blue cloak. The moment depicted is when, surrounded by angels, she tramples the spirit of evil.
The Apotheosis of the Immaculate by Cristoforo Santanna – 1797 canvas (m 7.00×3.00). This painting was commissioned to the artist by the friars of the convent. It celebrates the Virgin rising against a celestial background between angels and winged heads. It also depicts the Eternal Father, the Holy Spirit in the form of a dove and John Duns Scotus, one of the greatest scholastic thinkers.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Rende – www.comune.rende.cs.it
www.rendecentrostorico.it
This church appears externally solid and with very simple features, despite its Baroque date; yet, inside it reveals a beating heart of devotion and warmth for the faithful. The first stone of the building was laid around 1600, but the finished work has evolved considerably over many years. The façade that can be seen today was redone in 1719: it features an admirable multi-coloured stained glass window at the top depicting the Madonna of Constantinople with Child. The Latin cross plan lends solemnity to the sanctuary. Its interior, as anticipated, stands in stark contrast to the austerity of the exterior. In fact, it is richly decorated and features a dome entirely frescoed by Capizzano with images of the Virgin of Constantinople in Glory. The high altar is of excellent workmanship, featuring multi-coloured marble. In the chapel is a beautiful oil-painted icon framed by a fine copper support. The shrine also houses a small museum with sacred vestments and silver objects dating from around 1600.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Rende – www.comune.rende.cs.it
www.rendecentrostorico.it
It is an admirable 18th-century Baroque building located in Piazza del Seggio, right in the centre of Rende. The building was erected starting from the end of 1677, although it was modified and remodelled several times over the next century, until it achieved, towards the end of the 18th century, the appearance that can be admired today. The façade of the church, made of stone extracted from the quarry in Mendicino, was built in the 18th century by Raffaele and Giuseppe De Bartolo, under the influence of Neapolitan art of that period. The façade is divided into three sections, of which the central one is more recessed than the lateral ones. Valuable plant decorations dominate the portal framed by small columns. The church is rich in pilasters surmounted by Corinthian-style capitals and shell niches of clear Baroque inspiration. The interior of the building features exciting frescoes by Cristoforo Santanna.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Rende – www.comune.rende.cs.it
www.rendecentrostorico.it
In the vicinity of the cathedral, in Via Bellarintha to be precise, visitors can find the Rende Civic Museum, built in the early 1980s. It is a curated exhibition inside the 18th-century Palazzo Zagarese, former home of the Rende noble family of the same name. It offers a review of civic folklore, as well as a picture gallery dedicated to Rendese painter Achille Capizzano. The building is divided into several rooms that revolve around the courtyard, which dates back to 1695. The museum has been architecturally remodelled several times, so it now features a double loggia. Its strategic location allows one to enjoy a splendid panoramic view directly from the terrace. The folklore section mentioned above is dedicated to the Calabrian anthropologist Lombardi Satriani and is set up to convey the particularity of the local culture. A vast panorama of popular customs and traditions can be seen in the exhibition rooms. The art gallery section, named after the painter Capizzano, displays works of great value. Among the most interesting are ‘Il Soldato’ by Mattia Preti and ‘La Madonna della Purità’ by Dirk Hendricksz.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Rende – www.comune.rende.cs.it
www.rendecentrostorico.it
It is an exhibition of artists from Calabria or who have worked in the area over the last two centuries. Its name, MAON, is an acronym that stands for Museo d’Arte Otto e Novecento (Museum of Nineteenth- and Twentieth-Century Art); therefore, it fully represents the works it contains. It has been housed since 2004 in the 19th-century Palazzo Vitari, located in the historic centre of Rende. Created on the initiative of the Achille Capizzano Centre for Art and Culture, MAON also has a significant documentary archive that makes it unique. As mentioned above, the museum showcases the excellence of Calabrian art, but does not shy away from proposing monographic exhibitions dedicated to great Italian and foreign artists, such as Giorgio de Chirico, Umberto Boccioni and Man Ray. The permanent exhibition is divided into different branches, among which are those dedicated to Achille Capizzano, Calabrian art and the works of 20th century masters. Visitors will be enraptured as they admire Salvador Dali’s ‘Evangelical Scene’, George Braque’s ‘Butterfly’ and Mimmo Rotella’s ‘Tiger’, as well as works by Picasso and Max Ernst.
Info and contacts:
MAON Museum – www.maon.it
Heading south of the historical centre of Rende, near Robinson Park and the Roges district, is the Museum of the Present. It is located in the modern part of the town and has eight exhibition rooms covering an area of 2500 m². The museum offers visitors modern and contemporary art exhibitions, photographic exhibitions, film forums and shows. It is also often transformed into an ideal venue for conferences and book presentations. The rooms are on two floors of a building as modern as the contemporary art to which it is dedicated. The museum was created with the intention of offering the population many cultural events: shows, conferences, photographic and contemporary art exhibitions and book presentations. There is also an Internet café where you can relax and enjoy the works while exchanging opinions and culture with other enthusiasts. Among the outstanding artists in this museum structure are Domenico lo Russo, Ivana Russo and Anna Romanello.
Info and contacts:
Facebook: museodelpresente
In the Roges district, it is worth visiting Robinson Park. This is Rende’s green lung, located right in the heart of its urban area. Inaugurated in the 1970s, it can to all intents and purposes be considered the first city park: since then, it has been a meeting place for outdoor recreation for various age groups, thanks to its shady lawns, ideal for pleasant walks. The area also offers an ice-skating rink, an amphitheatre and children’s areas equipped for the enjoyment of the little ones. According to local urban planning plans, the area is to be redeveloped to become ‘the largest inclusive park in Europe’. Robinson Park can be reached on foot not only from Rende, but also from Cosenza, via Viale Mancini, which connects the urban areas of the two cities. The area is also continuously served by public transport. Near the park, there are numerous refreshment facilities: bars, ice-cream parlours, pizzerias, shops and even a shopping centre. In addition to a stroll in the green nature it offers, perhaps stopping to admire the amphitheatre and the pond inhabited by ducks and ducklings, the park also offers a skating rink where skaters and rollerbladers can safely enjoy themselves.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Rende – www.comune.rende.cs.it
2) At the heart of Sila
We are talking about a rural centre in the Presilana belt located 640 metres above sea level and characterised by very interesting views for visitors. San Pietro in Guarano has very ancient origins: its first inhabited nucleus has been dated around the second century B.C., therefore in the middle of the Roman era! As evidence of this, archaeologists have found finds in the nearby locality of Vigne. San Pietro has been known since the beginning of the 19th century because of the courage of its inhabitants who rebelled against the harassment of invaders intent on plundering their homes, as evidenced by the painting in the town church of St. Peter the Apostle. The territory of the municipality stretches from the valley of the Crati river to the locality of Fago del Soldato, in Sila Grande, and includes the hamlets of Redipiano and San Benedetto in Guarano, as well as numerous smaller towns. Near San Pietro is Monte Margherita, dedicated to the memory of a woman killed by a man named Raone, probably a local brigand capable of instilling terror and imposing duties and tests of courage to pass through the inaccessible territories under his control.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of San Pietro in Guarano – www.comune.sanpietroinguarano.cs.it
This is a sacred building built in the late 19th and early 20th century by architect Pisanti, who was responsible for the restoration of Cosenza Cathedral. The church in question is located in the centre of San Pietro in Guarano and has a single hall conformation with a rectangular apse. Worthy of note is the high altar made of wood, the balustrade in front of it and the bronze gate – from Cosenza Cathedral – dating from around the mid-18th century, a gift from Archbishop Capece Galeotta. The façade, divided into two levels by pillars in classical style, has four empty niches, as well as a grandiose round-arched portal framing the main doorway, which is accompanied by a 2001 painting depicting the Madonna of Jerusalem with Child. The church also has a bell tower with a clock and harmonious mullioned windows.
It is the oldest religious building in San Pietro in Guarano. Its origins date back to the 14th century, when the monks built it and dedicated it to their patroness, the Blessed Virgin of Consolation. The building has a clean and monastically simple style: its classical Latin cross plan is flanked by a square-based bell tower. Inside, the space is divided into three naves where works of great spiritual and artistic value are located. In the left aisle one can see the original crucifix, placed there by the founding monks, in the central aisle a marble altar with Baroque decorations recently restored, while in the right aisle there are paintings depicting sacred subjects. The more observant will notice in the paintings holes caused by bullets that Napoleon’s troops fired into the church in 1806, the date of the bloody suppression of an anti-French revolt. This damage was not repaired, but left as a testimony to the heroic defence of their cultural and religious heritage, courageously carried out by the locals. Also noteworthy is the reproduction of the Grotto of Lourdes in the left aisle.
Situated in the heart of Sila Grande, at an altitude of 1,200 m, the Camigliati Tower is a typical example of an 18th century Silan baronial residence. It is a completely restored monument of national interest, immersed in the green of a private park of about 60 hectares and surrounded by trees, streams and flowering meadows. Work on the monument only took place recently, after decades of neglect since the land reform of 1950. Today, the structure has regained its former glory: for a time, in fact, the tower was the only luxury hotel in the entire Silan area. Since 2001, it has become a cultural centre for the development and promotion of the area, inserted within the broader project called ‘Parco Oldcalabria’. Immersed in a landscape of incomparable beauty, monuments such as this one represent the bulwarks symbolising the strength of the landowners in their struggle with the peasants who cultivated the local land.
Info and contacts:
www.torrecamigliati.com
Camigliatello is one of the centres of the Sila Grande with the greatest vocation for tourism. The name derives from the Scamigliati, religious men who did not wear shirts under their habit. Characterised by a built-up area of beautiful mountain architecture surrounded by lush larch pine forests, the entire centre of the town falls within the Sila National Park and is characterised by its typical breathtaking mountain views. Camigliatello is also a popular destination for winter sports enthusiasts, with slopes dedicated to alpine and cross-country skiing and the modern cableway of Mount Curcio. In summer, too, there are many opportunities for outdoor activities for hikers, thanks to a dense network of trekking trails of varying difficulty, and long itineraries that can be covered by mountain bike. Other points of interest in the area include the archaeological areas in the hollows later used to create artificial lakes: remains of Neanderthal Man settlements and Neolithic fishing and farming villages, as well as evidence from Greek and Roman times, have been found in these areas.
Info and contacts:
Camigliatello Turismo – www.camigliatelloturismo.it
The Tasso Biogenetic Nature Reserve, the former natural ‘silo’ for shipbuilding timber, comprises 223 hectares of unspoilt forest, with the typical Sila larch pine towering in number and size of trees. Protected today as it was then, the Tasso Nature Reserve is home to the Silan wolf, the famous predator that is one of the symbols of Sila, but also to the small driomio, a rodent similar to the dormouse. A dedicated birdwatching area within the reserve allows even the most inexperienced observers to come into contact with sparrow hawks, scops owls, woodpeckers, lizards and crossbills, which can be admired immersed in their natural habitat.
The nature reserve is famous for preserving the famous Giants of the Sila, i.e. fifty-six monumental specimens of laricio pine over five hundred years old, up to 45 metres tall and over two metres in diameter at the base. Inside the reserve, now managed by the FAI, there are other younger specimens of larch pine, as well as various wild apple, beech, chestnut, quaking aspen and sycamore maple trees. These plants represent the last remnants of the oldest forests of Sila, which originally populated the entire plateau and were progressively cut down in the period following the Unification of Italy for industrial needs, and later after World War II to repay the American and British allies in timber. The name Fallistro means ‘dark, hollowed-out place’. A silk spinning mill operated on the site until 1910.
Info and contacts:
FAI – Fondo per l’Ambiente Italiano – www.fondoambiente.it/luoghi/i-giganti-della-sila
Sila National Park – www.parcosila.it
The idea of building a narrow-gauge railway connecting the city of Cosenza to the port of Crotone, crossing the Sila plateau, was born as early as the end of the 19th century. Various political and bureaucratic vicissitudes, together with the progressive improvement of road connections, caused the realisation of the project to be delayed in time and only partially realised between the 1930s and the 1950s. Originally conceived as a support system for the transport of timber, the infrastructure later acquired an interest in tourism, although its operation was always on and off. Today, visitors to Sila can enjoy a short but fascinating experience moving between the stations of Camigliatello and San Nicola Silano: a short journey through space, but a real leap back in time, comfortably seated on the wagons pulled by an old steam locomotive. The service operates by reservation at different times of the year.
Info and contacts:
Sila Train – www.trenodellasila.it
La Nave della Sila is the local museum dedicated to the theme of emigration. Conceived by journalist Gian Antonio Stella, it was built by Sila architect Barracco. Inside, we find a reproduction of the classic steamship from the early 20th century that brought thousands of Calabrian emigrants to foreign lands. The museum was created from the transformation of an old cowherd and is part of the ‘Oldcalabria Park’ project, which represents a journey through history and the society that made the region of Calabria internationally known. Through blow-ups, and recordings of traditional folk songs, a narrator’s voice guides the visitor through the history of the men of Sila with great transport and emotion. The museum has several interactive sections with the task of leading the visitor to the discovery of emigration-related themes, such as the relationship with relatives left behind in the country of origin, the discovery of the new world, poverty, and homesickness.
Info and contacts:
3) Acri: the town on three hills
The town of Acre is located at an altitude of 700 metres within a valley that consists of no less than twenty thousand hectares of land. Its peculiarity? It is spread over three hills, which are also prominently displayed on the heraldic coat of arms. One of the hills is Padìa, the ancient village, where the civic tower known as Rocca dei Bruzi stands out, while the other two summits are represented by Picitti (Greek quarter) and Odivella. In addition to the many religious buildings, frequently linked to the figure of Saint Angelo of Acre, we recommend a visit to the Castle of Acre and the many noble palaces in the area for their architectural merit.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Acre – www.comune.acri.cs.it
Built in 1893 to a design by architect Guido Quercioli from Rome, the church, elected a Shrine after the proclamation of Angelo da Acri as a Saint of the Catholic Church by Pope Francis in 2017, was inaugurated with a solemn celebration on 17 July 1898. The church is dedicated to Brother Angelo, born Lucantonio Falcone at the end of the 17th century, who was named Blessed for his miracles as early as 1825, by Pope Leo XII . The bronze door of the building is truly imposing: it weighs a good five tonnes! It is engraved with the seven virtues, namely faith, hope, charity, prudence, justice, fortitude and temperance, as well as a representation of Jesus with his Disciples, accompanied by the papal coat of arms. The church has a 32-metre high dome, surrounded by two bell towers of the same height. Inside, there are no less than twelve noble chapels, arranged in two rows. Between the second and third altars, there is the Chapel of St. Angelo with the bronze urn by Sabatini, placed on a raised sarcophagus housing the Saint’s remains, reassembled by the anthropologist Ettore Brandizzi. In the chapel, the mosaic, imitating the palaeo-Christian style of Ravenna, is an absolute must-see, composed of tesserae that in their harmony synthesise, thanks to the work of the artist Father Ugolino da Belluno, the Saint’s ideals. The interior of the basilica is also entirely frescoed with scenes depicting the miracles of Saint Angelo d’Acri.
The community of Acri expressly wanted to pay homage to the figure of Saint Angelo da Acri in order to pass on, as much as possible, his preaching work and his fervent Christian spirit, by setting up a small but evocative museum in the premises attached to the church. In it, visitors can admire the Saint’s relics, in addition to the remains and original habit preserved in the church: these are objects from the daily life the Saint led within the Capuchin order. Also noteworthy are the paintings, statues and ancient texts inside. Just a few steps from the museum is St. Angelo’s cell, known as the ‘solitary cell’ of the monastery, in which the pious man used to retire. This museum is a regular destination for many pilgrims who appreciate both its religious and artistic character.
The Castle of Acre, also called ‘Castel Vetere’, was erected to control the valley of the Mucone and Calamo rivers already in the Bruzi, i.e. pre-Roman, era. The Bruzi, or Bretti, were an ancient people of Italic stock who inhabited Calabria, as documented by sources from around 350 BC. The castle originally had a shape similar to that of a trapezium, with three towers placed in the highest part and a fourth in the lowest level of the defensive walls, guarding the drawbridge. The walls surrounding it are about two metres in diameter at the highest part, and four metres at the lowest. Since the early 20th century, the castle has been equipped with a cistern, for water supply in case of siege: it was about six metres high and twenty metres wide. From archaeological activities near the walls, several coins of Greek origin were found in 1999, some from Sybaris and others from Thurii: at present, this heritage is under the Archaeological Superintendence of the Sibaritide.
In the Middle Ages, ancient walls defended the Padìa district, forming a citadel that also included the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, another of Acre’s fundamental religious monuments, listed in the 13th-century ‘platea’ of Bishop Ruffino da Bisignano in 1269. Visitors can admire both the Romanesque and Baroque styles of the building. The vault, once painted, remained bare due to a fire in 1780. Inside the church, traces of an early Christian temple were also found by a specialised team between 2004 and 2007.
In the main urban centre, and precisely in Piazza Sprovieri, the visitor encounters the 13th-century Church of the Annunziata, characterised by its peculiar three-storey white stone bell tower, on the second of which stands an imposing circular clock. The plan of the building is typically Romanesque in the form of a Latin cross with three naves. Worthy of note inside are the works of Raffaele d’Alvisio, author of the fresco depicting the Evangelists that appears on the dome of the High Altar. The church sacristy also houses a valuable painting from the Byzantine era that was discovered during the latest restoration work: although it is the last remaining fragment of a much larger work, one can see the Deposition of Christ and part of the Gothic inscription illustrating it.
The sacred building was built in 1590 thanks to a donation by Don Antonio Le Pera, but was not opened to the faithful until 1594. The dedication is clearly dedicated to St Mary of the Angels. What gives it its name, however, is the statue – the Madonna of Needs – placed near the altar and given to the people of Acre by Saint Angelo in 1729. Attached to the church is the convent, which in ancient times comprised eighteen cells, the refectory, the pantry, the workshop and the guest quarters, where the Capuchin friars still work today. The cloister, which gives breath to the structure, is square in plan, with a double row of segmental arches, five on each side, supported by Doric columns. Worthy of note is a sort of impluvium, represented by a cistern for collecting rainwater placed in the centre, while on one side of the courtyard are depictions of episodes from the life of Saint Angelo of Acre, dating from around the 18th century.
The visitor can find it in the ancient Casalicchio quarter, where its origins date back to 1070, during the time of the Angevins. The sacred building, subject to reconstruction after a strong earthquake, has a clean, linear structure, on which a small brick bell tower now stands out, as well as a bas-relief representing St Nicholas holding a large key, just above the entrance door. The three-nave interior features an altarpiece depicting the eponymous saint in the centre. In contrast, the left aisle ends with the sacristy, while the right aisle ends with a small chapel dedicated to tombstones. The church is also rich in works of art depicting the Heart of Jesus, Our Lady of Grace, Saint Rita and Saint Lucy.
The church was founded by parish priest Giacomo De Piris in 1521 following an apparition of the Virgin Mary to a local devotee. The woman, tired from work, invoked the Virgin, who, after revealing herself, asked her to dig a well to bless the land that had been soaked in too much human blood. In fact, about a hundred years earlier, in 1462, there was a bloody siege by the Aragonese army, right where the old Jewish quarter stood.
Unfortunately, little remains of the building’s original splendour due to a fire in the mid-19th century; it was later rebuilt, but inside you can still admire the well from which pure water gushes out every year in May. In front of this ancient little church on the Tuesday after Pentecost in 1737, Saint Angelo handed over the statue of Our Lady of Sorrows to the people of Acre as their patroness. This work of art, once restored, was placed and kept in the Small Church of Sant’Angelo.
PALAZZO SANSEVERINO FALCONE – The Sanseverino palace was built at the behest of Giuseppe Leopoldo Sanseverino, 9th Prince of Bisignano, and designed by a Roman artist as a summer residence. A park, surrounded by walls, was soon added to the original construction. The palace has a square ground plan with a 40-metre edge and a large courtyard inside. The building has four floors accessible by stone steps. As the building is made of ordinary masonry of “pietrame” and common mortar, since the 19th century there has been a slow but steady process of deterioration, which, combined with the state of neglect, has caused significant damage to the structure, until part of it collapsed around 1960. The east wing of the ground floor is characterised by a large hall with walls with niches, said to have been decorated in the past with splendid marble figures. In the centre of the same room are eight stone columns with capitals in late 16th-century style, probably reused from an earlier building. The second floor, also known as the piano nobile, where the family resided, is made up of many halls, rich in frescoes, while the third floor was used for servants and the kitchen. The palace came under the Falcone family after the nobleman Don Angelo Falcone married Princess Carmela Sanseverino. In the 1980s, the palace was donated by the Falcone family to the City of Acre and now houses the MACA, Acre’s Museum of Contemporary Art.
PALAZZO PADULA – The Palazzo Padula was built by the writer and poet Vincenzo Padula (1819-1893) in an area that was originally isolated. Its construction was, according to the artist, an emblem of the position achieved by the man of culture in Acre. For this reason, he had two pens and an inkwell carved into the portal of the building. The palace was equipped with loopholes, suitable for placing firearms, to defend against possible attacks by brigands, very frequent at that time. Today, Palazzo Padula is the seat of the municipal library of Acre and the Padula Foundation, promoter of the annual international award dedicated to the writer’s memory. Also noteworthy is the Acre Museum of Rural Civilisation, housed inside the building.
PALAZZO FERAUDO – The building, with a rectangular floor plan, has four floors and a total area of approximately 880 square metres. The palace commissioned by Dr. Giacinto Feraudo was built in the mid-19th century to a design by architect Mattia Mele from Luzzi.
PALAZZO ASTORINO GIANNONE – Erected in the ‘Casalicchio’ district near the birthplace of Saint Angelo d’Acri, the Astorino Giannone palace also includes the saint’s chapel. The Giannone family, who came from Bitonto, used the palace as a country residence until the beginning of the 18th century, from which time it was inhabited by the Astorino family. Inside, there are still 18th- and 19th-century furniture and paintings. The palace has a library of thousands of ancient volumes that were passed on, virtually intact, to successive owners.
PALAZZO SPEZZANO – This is an ancient aristocratic residence dating back to the 18th century, which has belonged to the Spezzano family since its origins. The building is characterised by interesting architectural aspects that were even innovative for the period. The interior is divided into rooms, with efficient use of space, on three floors connected by a functional internal staircase.
PALAZZO DE SIMONE-JULIA – The structure in the historical centre of Acre was built in the early 17th century by the De Simone family and then passed on to their heirs, the Julia family. The building is an example of the ‘impalazzate’ houses, i.e. built in the shape of palaces, found in the historical centre of Acre. Its three-storey architecture reserved the role of storeroom for agricultural products for the ground floor.
4) Longobucco: town of silver, textiles and brigands
Longobucco is 800 m above sea level and is located in the province of Cosenza, right in the heart of the Sila Greca, just 21 km from Lake Cecita. Despite boasting less than 5,000 inhabitants, this municipality is the third largest town in Calabria because it includes a large part of its territory that is part of the Sila National Park. In short, it is a pretty village nestled between the Sila Greca and Sila Grande, surrounded by mountains, rivers and lakes that are home to countless animal and plant species. Around the inhabited area there is, since the Magna Grecia era, a large area of great mining importance linked to silver mining, which flourished in the past. According to some scholars, the roots of this village date back to that period! Indeed, it is possible to associate the description of the ancient city of Temesa with Longobucco thanks to Homer’s account in the Odyssey, precisely because of the conspicuous presence of silver mines along the Manna river. The entire territory of Longobucco, in fact, was rich in mine shafts, among which excelled the silver galena extracted and processed by Sybarites, Crotonians and Romans to mint their coins. Longobucco, in addition to natural beauty and real explorations into history, also offers monuments and traditions that are fully worth seeing to have an exciting experience of the area.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Longobucco – www.comune.longobucco.cs.it
The main watercourses of the plateau – the Cecita, the Lese and the Neto – originate from this splendid thousand-year-old forest, which extends to the east of Lake Cecita. The smaller watercourses, tributaries of the main rivers, develop among the roots of the alders, crossing with daffodils, rushes and ferns that populate the dense undergrowth. Soaring above the forest are the peaks of Altare at 1650, Pettinascura at 1708, Cozzo del Principe at 1629 and Serra Ripollata at 1682. The forest is thick and lush, and offers the suggestive ‘picture postcard’ alpine views typical of Sila. Try the Cupone – Cozzo del Principe – Fossiata – Cupone route. The departure point is the same as the arrival point. To do this, follow path No. 2 all the way and at the end, after about 9 km, take path No. 3, which descends to the river, skirting it for a few kilometres.
Brigandage was a complex and widespread social phenomenon in the Silan territory from the 18th to the 19th century. Its origin is to be found in the active resistance of groups of workers, artisans and peasants who, tired of suffering oppression and exploitation by local squires, took refuge in the woods and defended their territories with their teeth. Unfortunately, their good intentions were not understood and, as a result, these individuals, publicly labelled as outlaws, were persecuted and eliminated during the period of Italian unification. Having said that, there were many brigands and gangs that roamed the Sila mountains for a long time. The most important gangs were those of Antonio Santoro, known as ‘Re Curemme’, Domenico Sapia known as ‘Brutto’, Francesco Godino known as ‘Faccione’, Luigi Maio known as ‘Catalano’, Domenico Graziano known as ‘Turchio’, and Domenico Straface known as ‘Palma’ or ‘Il re della foresta’. Many of these brigands were originally from Longobucco, which was therefore the most active centre of this phenomenon for years. For this reason, on 24 September 2011, the town council inaugurated the Centre for Documentation on Brigandage, with the aim of collecting and preserving the most striking documents, thus providing a useful reference point for scholars, researchers and students wishing to learn more about it. The centre is located in the Franciscan Monastery – at the House of Associations and Cultures: the documents collected inside deal with the subject from different points of view, namely the social, military, political, literary, juridical and human points of view.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Longobucco – www.comune.longobucco.cs.it
The Museo dell’Artigianato Silano e della Difesa del suolo (Museum of Sila Handicrafts and Soil Defence), located in Longobucco, inside the former convent of the Franciscan Friars Minor, is an important bulwark for the dissemination of knowledge of the Sila territory and its people. The building that houses it, known as ‘dei Monaci’, is adjacent to the ancient church of Santa Maria Maddalena and was inaugurated in 1615 by one of the probable founders, Dr Benedetto Greco. From 1937 until the year 2000, the annual industrial vocational training course was held there, which later became a training and retraining school. In 2008, the former convent underwent restoration work and today, preserving its old style, it fulfils its role as the centre of Longobucca culture. The aforementioned museum structure is part of the project for the redevelopment of the area and its promotion as a destination for cultural, nature and sports tourism (with particular reference to the segment of visitors interested in protected areas, in order to enhance the link between historical-cultural, ecological-environmental and food-and-wine heritage). It is an ecomuseum, i.e. a cultural institution whose essential components are the territory, the population and the heritage, understood as everything to which the community has attributed sufficient value over time to be manifested. The aim is to make it more and more a true showcase, where to highlight the reasons for interest, to encourage nature tourism in the area, and to highlight the critical issues on which to draw public attention in order to encourage a more effective environmental protection policy. Inside the museum is a permanent exhibition dedicated to the tradition, arts and crafts typical of Longobucco, with a focus on local handicrafts.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Longobucco – www.comune.longobucco.cs.it
One of Longobucco’s historical and monumental assets is the Matrix Church, typically Baroque but built on an earlier medieval structure, dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta and since 1960 a Marian Sanctuary. The fascinating marly limestone façade with partly Baroque and partly Romanesque decorations makes a strong impact on the visitor. Inside, the church contains many works of art, such as the wood carvings created by carvers from Serra San Bruno, as well as the two large frescoes in the choir (The Nativity and The Adoration of the Magi), painted by Cristoforo Santanna da Rende, one of the greatest Calabrian artists of the 18th century and inspired by human models from Longobucca. The most precious heritage is, however, the wooden icon in relief, depicting a black Madonnina with Child, known as ‘dei Carbonai’. The work, placed on the altar of the Chapel of the Assumption, was made by artists from Sila around the 12th-15th centuries.
The area around Longobucco is steeped in the legends of its ancient brigands. One of the most famous tells of a young bride kidnapped and robbed of all her wedding gifts. It is the story of the ‘Stone of the Bride’ or the ‘Treasure Stone’, reported by leading local and national newspapers. The famous stone really exists and stands out like a jewel surrounded by greenery, which can be visited by trekking enthusiasts. Behind its legend lies the hiding place of a much larger booty, hidden by brigands: to find it, it would be necessary to go there alone, and moreover at night, following specific directions received in a dream. Since this is not easy to do, no one has yet managed to unearth the secret passage that would allow access to the aforementioned riches… Perhaps this is why such a destination is so coveted and visited.
Called the town ‘of silvers and looms’, Longobucco has always been a place of great interest for the tradition of textile processing. Over the centuries, the women who lived there became so expert at working with textiles, such as raw silk, waste and wool, that their artefacts are still considered true works of art today. In Longobucco, we find the Broom Museum, named after Eugenio Celestino, which exhibits various processed textile artefacts, such as bedspreads, carpets, tapestries and documents the entire processing cycle from the plant to the yarn. The museum traces the entire cycle of broom processing, including steeping, beating, threading, carding, spinning, dyeing and weaving. On display are ancient textiles, tapestries, bedspreads and carpets of exquisite workmanship. Traditional Longobucco weaving is, in a very close way, intertwined with the Celestino family, whose master Eugenio, as early as the 1920s, with surprising entrepreneurial skill, realised the importance of the artistic weaving that the women of Longobucco practised at family level, and therefore decided to set up a true craft enterprise that would put this excellence at the centre.
Info and contacts:
www.mariocelestino.it
The bell tower of Longobucco was built as a watchtower for enemies; therefore, it is isolated and characterised by a functional architecture, as much as square, with masonry in exposed tuff blocks, resting on a base of large granite pebbles cemented with lime. All the materials from which the building is made were most likely found in the mountains and streams surrounding the village. The bell tower is located in front of the Matrice Church and consists of three superimposed dice – the third of which is slightly smaller – simply divided by string-course cornices. With regard to the tower’s historiographical data, a number of citations have been found in the artistic literature, including one by the architectural historian Arnaldo Venditti, who likens Longobucco’s bell tower to the much more famous bell tower of the cathedral of Melfi, a work signed by Noslo di Remerio in 1153.
“U Sacchiattu’ is a unique typical product of Longobucco.
To prepare it, the front leg of the pig is taken, between the foot and the thigh, and all the muscle is extracted, leaving the rind intact; it is cut into small pieces, then sprinkled with salt and black peppercorns; the mixture is then put back into the rind and sewn together with kitchen twine, both at the bottom and at the top; to make the sewing, despite the leathery consistency of the rind, a shoemaker’s awl is used.
The preparation is totally artisanal and requires time and patience. u sacchiattu is not currently on sale, but it is hoped that soon, thanks in part to the action of the Gal, which with the Terre di Calabria project has drawn up the production specifications, it will be marketed in restaurants and shops.
5) Bocchigliero and Campana, among the Greek Sila woodlands
In the vicinity of Bocchigliero, the Basilicò forest represents a biogenetic reserve that occupies a particularly important area from a floristic point of view. A visit to it in springtime is a real spectacle: anemones, orchids, campanulas and primroses dazzle with intoxicating colours and scents. There is no shortage of shrub species such as dog rose, laurel, broom, holly, heather, butcher’s broom, but there are also many trees such as oak, maple, ash and linden.
It is a characteristic village located in the heart of Sila on an elevated spur, a good 870 metres above sea level. In all probability, the urban agglomeration was born as a Roman colony during the Second Punic War, on the ruins of a citadel fortified by the Bruzi, but the archaeological sites found attest to important human settlements even earlier. The term Bocchigliero derives from the Roman Bocchilieurus, meaning land inhabited by shepherds. Due to the economic difficulties typical of the area at the time, many of the inhabitants emigrated elsewhere, causing the population to shrink from around 4,000 to its current 1,300 inhabitants. The municipality is surrounded by greenery: in addition to the Macchia della Giumenta Reserve, the Basilicò Forest, home to extraordinarily large tree species, is definitely worth a visit. The Laurenzana stream and the waterfalls of the Falconara valley and the Basilicò stream are also of great value. In the historical centre of the town, of medieval origin, the Mother Church, the Sanctuary of the Madonna di Jesu, the Municipal Picture Gallery and the Museum of Agriculture are worth a visit.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Bocchigliero – www.comune.bocchigliero.cs.it
The Museum of Peasant Civilisation in Bocchigliero performs a very important didactic function due to the presence of tools and utensils related to the old local trades. In addition to this, four hundred historical photographs can be admired inside the museum that help in the reconstruction of customs, social life, work in the fields of the past and the performance of religious festivals. The Farmers’ Museum presents unique exhibits that unfold in different sections: shepherd and farmer, interior of a farmhouse, natural fibre processing (silkworm, broom, spinning and weaving with textile expo), bread-making, blacksmith’s tools, donkey breeding and use, shoemaker, carpenter, musical instruments and wine production.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Bocchigliero – www.comune.bocchigliero.cs.it
At the centre of numerous tales and superstitions, the Incavallicata stones stand majestically near the village of Campana. They are two large sandstone stones, of different shapes, which seem to depict a 6-metre high elephant and the legs of an even more imposing warrior respectively. In the same area stands a whole hill in the shape of a whale and a sculpture depicting a snake with a total length of about 10 metres. The hypothesis is that we are facing the largest prehistoric sculptures in Europe! Doubts about their genesis tickle the imagination of tourists: were they man-made, or shaped by time and weathering? The statues, rediscovered a few years ago, were already known in the past. In a 17th-century writing, Bishop Francesco Marino describes one of the sculptures as ‘the great colossus that fell to the ground because of earthquakes’. Furthermore, in an ancient map of Calabria, dated 1603, the Incavallicata is referred to as Il Cozzo dei Giganti. Little more remains of the Great Colossus today than the indefinitely shaped base, while the statue of the Stone Elephant is clearly visible. Scientifically speaking, there are many hypotheses about their origin, although at present no certain answer has been given and the dating and nature of the statues is still being studied. There are two main theories: the first is that they were made at the time of King Pyrrhus’ arrival in Italy, the first to bring elephants to Calabria; the second is that the statues are prehistoric sculptures and that the elephant depicts a Palaeoloxodon antiquus, a pachyderm with straight tusks that lived in Calabria in prehistoric times, as shown by the findings on the southern shore of Lake Cecita, in Campo San Lorenzo, near the municipality of Spezzano della Sila.
Campana is the village that you do not expect to find and that surprises you with its echoing desolation. An incredible place, where you can only find a living soul if you are able to listen to your own! Once you have ventured into the narrow streets, you get as far as you can go with your car and it is there that a shiver can run down your spine to awaken memories and ancient legends. Leaving the car in the last square of the inhabited village, dominated by the church of the Madonna di Costantinopoli and Palazzo Rizzo, now the site of a rest home, the visitor can push on to a part of the village that anyone would avoid at night. From there begins a street, called Calaserna, along which one gradually sinks into the decay of what has long since been abandoned to itself. Lovers of photographs of deserted buildings will be enraptured: glassless windows, crumbling walls, open doors to dark, empty rooms are everywhere! Continuing on, there is a short, narrow alley named after none other than Herodotus, which bears witness to the mention of this village in the works of the famous Greek historian. Moving further on, one passes an archway topped by the Norman Tower that once formed the entrance to the village. From here, the buildings become even more ghostly: although they are more recent buildings than the tower, they are in a far worse state than it. During the second half of the 20th century, in fact, the population largely abandoned Campana to move elsewhere, emigrating to the north, as well as abroad. Their houses, most likely not built to last, have been eaten away by the weather and worn away by time.
6) San Giovanni in Fiore, spiritual capital of Sila
San Giovanni in Fiore is the largest municipality in Sila. It has about 18,000 inhabitants and is located in the vicinity of the Alta Val di Neto and the Montenero mountain district. It enjoys a beautiful record; in fact, it is the most populated Italian municipality above 1,000 metres. Its population centre is linked to the figure of Abbot Gioacchino da Fiore, a 12th-13th century exegete monk, who founded the monastery of San Giovanni in Fiore there, bringing many people from neighbouring places. The majestic Florense Abbey, one of the architectural jewels of the area, is dedicated to him. In memory of the religious figure, the International Centre for Gioachimite Studies was founded here, a body recognised by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage and Activities, which studies and works to collect all the abbot’s writings. San Giovanni in Fiore is also linked to the historical figures of the Bandiera Brothers, Italian patriots who were captured in its vicinity in 1844. The municipality currently hosts the administrative headquarters of the Sila National Park, located in the hamlet of Lorica, belonging to the Silana Mountain Community.
Info and contacts:
www.lacapitaledellasila.it
The Florense Abbey represents the first nucleus of the settlement of San Giovanni in Fiore. It was erected between 1215 and 1230 in an area specially chosen by its founder, Joachim of Fiore, and is dedicated to St John the Baptist. The need for its construction arose following the burning down of the original Protocenobium (also known as the Abbey of San Sebastiano) in Iure Vetere. The abbey represents one of the largest and most important religious buildings in the whole of Calabria, around which the town of San Giovanni in Fiore developed. The religious building is characterised by a large nave that ends in a flat apse with four circular windows. It is worth visiting the crypt, where the remains of Joachim of Fiore were originally kept, later moved to the side chapel of the church. The crypt, an essential element of this architecture, is part of a larger underground system, which has now partly disappeared. On the ground and first floors of the east wing of the Abbey, the ancient traditions of the Silan peoples are narrated in the permanent exhibition called the Demological Museum of Silan Economy, Work and Social History.
7) From San Giovanni to Pietrafitta: in the footsteps of Joachim
Lake Arvo is an artificial basin created in 1926-32 for hydroelectric purposes, damming the course of the river of the same name and the Bufalo and Fiego torrents. It is located at an altitude of 1278 m and occupies an area of 8 square kilometres, making it the second largest in Sila, after Cecita. The dam that generated it is made of compacted earth and clay, a unique case in the entire region. As with the Cecita, Lake Arvo also fits harmoniously into Sila’s mountain environment and has become a centre of attraction for tourists over the years. It lends itself well to water sports such as canoeing or wind surfing, is swimmable and is rich in countless species of fish, both native and introduced, of interest to sport fishing enthusiasts. Among other activities, available to outdoor enthusiasts are several equipped mountain bike trails and numerous trekking routes of varying difficulty.
Located on the northern shore of Lake Arvo, at an altitude of 1314 metres, is Lorica, an unmissable destination for visitors to the Silan lands. Among the most renowned tourist resorts in the area, Lorica has various attractions, first and foremost the nearby Lake Arvo, with its countless opportunities for sports and tourism and its enchanting landscapes. Among the various attractions are imposing larch groves, well worth a visit, that line the town and descend along the mountain slopes to the shores of the lake. Another must-visit is the SilAvventurA park, which allows young and old alike to venture safely along acrobatic routes through the peaks of the Sila fir forests, amidst suspension bridges, ladders and acrobatic experiences. A boat service powered by electric batteries also operates on the lake. Among the attractions not to be missed is the bobsleigh track set up near the hamlet of Cavaliere.
The town’s name betrays an ancient origin: the lorica was in fact the ancient armour of the Romans, who inhabited the Sila territories at the time of the Punic Wars, and who extracted pitch for their warships from the wood of the Sila.
Information and contacts:
Sila National Park Authority – www.parcosila.it
Proloco Lorica – www.prolocolorica.it
Loricaly – www.loricaly.it
8) Among the Presila towns
The village of Pietrafitta, located at about 700 metres above sea level, originated in the 10th century, along with many other Cosenza hamlets that were established in 986, following the Saracen invasions. Gioacchino da Fiore lived here from 1189 until his death, which occurred on 30 May 1202, while he was overseeing the restoration of the small church of San Martino di Canale. In 1553, the village was shaken by violent internal quarrels, which were bloodily suppressed by the viceroy, who had as many as 18 people hanged in the central square, and another 16 cut in half. The reason, probably, was that numerous inhabitants of the village had the reputation of ferocious brigands.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Pietrafitta – www.comune.pietrafitta.cs.it
The village’s name derives from the foot-shaped hill on which it was built. It is an ancient territorial district of Cosenza, and is part of the ancient ‘Casali del Manco’, that group of small villages located on the slopes of the Presila. The original centre dates back to around the year one thousand, when a group of Cosentines took refuge at the foot of Mount Tenna, on the banks of the Cardone river, to escape the raids of the Arab Abulcasino. The town was the birthplace of Michele de Marco, aka ‘Ciardullo’, a dialectal poet and playwright. It was once called the ‘Toledo of Calabria’, because like the Spanish city it boasted a large number of blacksmiths and knife grinders specialised in the art of blades and knives.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Casali del Manco – www.comune.casalidelmanco.cs.it
Built in the 16th century according to a rectangular plan, with two naves and a single apse, the church of S.M. di Monte Oliveto features finely decorated stone arched structures inside. The portals of the façade are also of particular artistic value, also embellished with ancient decorations, some dating back to the 16th century. Inside, there is also a precious polyptych by Ippolito Borghese, called “Madonna with Child and Angels”, dating back to 1612.
The convent, which has a rectangular base, was built in 1617 on the remains of the cenoby of the confraternity of Santa Maria della Pietra, placed on a rock of considerable size. Legend has it that it was St Francis of Paola himself who insisted that it be built on that solid base, against the wishes of the labourers. The imposing structure was originally on four levels, of which only the first two remain: the ecclesiastical building on the first level, and the convent on the second. It is assumed that the other floors functioned as an extension of the living quarters and warehouse. We recommend a visit to the rectangular-plan cloister – around which the functions of the convent revolved – decorated in the interior walls with remarkable frescoes. The church, rectangular in plan with a single apse, features an interesting sculpted tuff arch. Underneath the structure is a thirty-metre tunnel, known as the ‘Lamia’: two ancient water troughs for donkeys can be found inside, over which an underground spring still pours clear, fresh water. In 1799, a mill was annexed to the structure, used by the brothers to be as self-sufficient as possible in the production of food for the brethren. The entire structure, with the passage of time, suffered extensive damage. Recently renovated, it has been used as a cultural centre to host concerts, plays, conferences, meetings and private ceremonies. The convent is also home to the Cosenza municipal library, as well as the ‘C.O.R.E’ restoration school.
The settlement, built on a rocky ridge above the confluence of the Cardone and Fiumicello streams, is in a strategic position, well sheltered and not visible from the Crati valley. Its birth, like other Silan villages, is closely linked to the need for refuge from the Saracen invasions of the 10th century. Surrounded by a splendid chestnut grove, the centre boasts one of the most beautiful squares in the entire area, Piazza Vittorio Veneto, which is characterised by a large century-old poplar tree. On the territory of Serra Pedace are the hamlets of Silvana Mansio, San Nicola Silano and Righìo. A centre rich in cultural ferment, every year it presents the ‘Presila Jazz’ festival and the ‘International Philosophy Festival of Sila’. It is also home to the Sila Environmental Museum, in Via Pandette, at the Municipal Library. If you follow the road dedicated to John XXIII, you will come across a splendid votive chapel and then arrive at a square adorned with three fountains from which pure and refreshing waters flow.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Casali del Manco – www.comune.casalidelmanco.cs.it
Casole Bruzio, is the historical centre of the municipality of Casali del Manco, formed in 2017. From a historical point of view, the foundation of the village with the name Triginta Casulae took place between the end of the 3rd and the beginning of the 2nd century B.C., by the Bruzi. Certainly from 986 onwards, the town was populated by groups of Cosentines who took refuge in the hills to escape the Saracen invasions. From the second half of the year 1000, it was incorporated into Spezzano Piccolo, then passed under Spanish rule, later becoming a fief of the Casole, Tirelli, Lupinacci, Massimilla, Basile, Grisolia and Ponte families. After several vicissitudes including raids and plagues, on 25 January 1820 Casole Bruzio became an autonomous municipality, remaining so until the 2017 referendum that saw it annexed to Casali del Manco. Today, the urban agglomeration appears divided into two nuclei, the second of which is developed near the church of Santa Marina, probably built around the year 1000. Civil buildings include the Casole or Tirelli palace.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Casali del Manco – www.comune.casalidelmanco.cs.it
Located on the Presilan hillside between the Caricchio and Cardone valleys, Spezzano Piccolo was founded, like the other villages in the area, by groups of people from Cosenza who took refuge on the heights to escape the Saracens. Among the villages on the plateau that fall within the municipality are Croce di Magara, la Sculca, Neto Ferraro, la Sculchiella, Righio, Ariamacina and Macchia di Pietro. Among the various hamlets of the main town, the one that should not be missed is Macchia, a small centre of about one hundred inhabitants, characterised by ancient and narrow alleys of medieval origin.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Casali del Manco – www.comune.casalidelmanco.cs.it
Already existing in the Presilan strip at the time of the Saracen invasions in the 9th century, Celico gave asylum to many Cosenza refugees fleeing Arab raids. In the Middle Ages, it was one of the first Jewish centres in the area, hence its very name derives from the Hebrew ‘Kel-LK’ and means ‘long and narrow vase’, underlining the particular conformation of the settlement, which takes precisely this shape, stretching along a rocky ridge to the left of the Cannavino stream. The town is best known for being the birthplace of Gioacchino da Fiore, a Christian theologian and mystic, and Gioacchino Greco, the famous 16th century chess player who invented some of the game’s best-known moves, namely the Greek Gambit and the Greek Defence.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Celico – www.comune.celico.cs.it
Like the other settlements in the area, Rovito was founded around the 10th century by people from Cosenza fleeing Saracen invaders. The municipality’s territory includes an area with altitudes ranging from 300 to 1475 metres above sea level. The ‘Vallone’, below the urban centre, is historically famous for the figures of the patriot brothers Attilio and Emilio Bandiera, who were shot there by the Bourbons in 1844. The town is also known for being the birthplace of the philosopher Tommaso Campanella and Bartolo Arnone. The latter built the palace of the same name in Colle Triglio. Rovito owes much of its fame to the numerous pipe-making workshops, whose briar has been harvested for generations on the surrounding hills and subjected, after a special boiling recipe, to subsequent seasoning.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Rovito – www.comune.rovito.cs.it
The Church of St Barbara, characterised by its Romanesque style, was built in the 15th century. The imposing religious building underwent heavy alterations in the Baroque period. The interior has three naves, with quadrangular tufa pillars alternating with round arches. The nave ends in a square apse covered by a hemispherical dome structure, a 17th-century reworking of the original layout. Noteworthy are the 18th-century carved wooden altar of Our Lady of Mount Carmel and contemporary oil paintings on canvas, as well as a valuable 16th-century stone baptistery supported by a lion statue. The exterior of the church reflects the three-nave division of the interior, presenting a raised central body and two lowered side bodies. The façade has a large central stone rose window and two side windows at the portals below.
Situated at about 650 metres above sea level, in the south-western area of Sila Grande, to the right of the Crati River, Lappano is a small town of about a thousand inhabitants, lying in an elevated position with respect to the road that runs alongside it, and just a few kilometres away from Cosenza. The centre is periodically animated by various events related to handicrafts, wine production and religious festivals of particular interest to tourists. Lappano enjoys an exceptional panoramic view that gives it an evocative atmosphere, the intensity of which is further enhanced by the waterfalls along the River Corno, located nearby.
Info and contacts:
Municipality of Lappano – www.comune.lappano.cs.it
This majestic 16th-century religious building, declared a national monument in 1958, has a three-nave layout divided by square stone pillars with round arches. The 17th-century high altarpiece is finely crafted, in inlaid wood and painted canvases. On the outside, the façade, which features a carved stone arch and portal, is accompanied by an 18th-century bell gable, contemporary with the side altars and windows.